Reamer size for 1/8" stop pin?

JPSWorks

JPSWorks

Well-Known Member
I have a question for you all regarding a reamer size. I am working on my frame lock whenever I have time, which isn't much lately unfortunately. My question is regarding the reamer size I need to purchase for getting a AKS hardened 1/8" stop pin to be press fit. My goal is to have it slip in one side but be pressed tight in the other side.

I'm looking on usaknifemaker now but not sure what I need to buy. How much undersized do you usually go on your reamers for getting the pins to be pressed in?

Thanks guys,

John
 
John, from my limited experience I now always measure the pin I have in hand before making the final holes. Pins can vary every so slightly, and until it's in your hand and you mic it, it would be hard to answer your question correctly. To press fit it I would ream it .0005 under and for slip fit ream .0005 - .001 over.
Good luck, hope this helps you out some.
 
Now I haven't made a ton of folders yet but, in my opinion, getting a fit you like is going to be more of an accident than anything. There are a lot of variables and unless you have some really good equipment, you will not be able to eliminate them all. I don't like press fit personally. I might put a knife together and take it apart 30 times in the course of a build. A press fit is just an annoyance in that process. If I have a pin that starts out press fitting, it usually isn't by the time I'm finished with the knife. I actually don't even ream my stop pin holes anymore; they get predrilled with all my other holes (usually a #55) and then I bore them out with a 3/32" (or 1/8") solid carbide straight flute drill. I then try several pins from the bin until I find a fit I'm happy with.

Bob
 
When you're dealing with (I don't know a better word) "good" folder hardware, if its advertised as 1/8" it actually going to be .0005" under that, meaning that it will fit into a 1/8" reamed hole. I don't know were that hardware is made, but I can tell you from past experience that IF the hardware is made in China, its a crapshoot..... I've had pins and pivots that were suppose to be .125" (advertised as 1/8") and some were 2-3 thousandths larger or smaller then advertised. This makes things really difficult, and makes me very grumpy. :)

If you're talking about something like a hardened dowel pin, my recommendation is to look closely at those sold by Enco, checking to make sure they are U.S. made, and buy a package of 100..... its going to be a lot less expensive, then just buying a few loose ones from any knife supply outfit, and IF you buy U.S. made, and the knife outfit is selling China made, you're going to be far happier with what you get.

Personally, I buy nearly all of my folder hardware from Steve Kelly at TiConnector.com. Everything is made here in Montana, and Steve strives for zero tolerances on all of his parts. It took him a year or so to get me to try his hardware because most of it is Titanium, and therefore expensive when compared to the made in China stuff......but it is WELL worth it! For lack of a better way to say it.....with made in China hardware I would always have to fiddle and fuss with my folders to get them "right", because the tolerances were so wide......when I started using Steve's hardware, my folders just sorta "fell" together, and worked.....haven't have to fuss and fight with one since.

If anyone has ever used made in China folder screws, only to find that the heads were not concentric, and the heads wouldn't fit in your counterbores......no such thing with Steve's stuff. I'll go out on a limb and say that Steve makes the best folder hardware available. If you want to stop fussing and fighting with building folders.....the first step is to start using Steve's hardware.....its that good.
 
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It might be the reamer.
Generally you want to drill your hole undersized by .010 to .015", then ream to size. If you ream closer to the actual hole size, say just a few thou under, the reamer doesn't work as well.

For the record, our folder parts are all made in the USA with tolerance machined at +/- .0005"
 
BossDog said:
It might be the reamer.
Generally you want to drill your hole undersized by .010 to .015", then ream to size. If you ream closer to the actual hole size, say just a few thou under, the reamer doesn't work as well.

For the record, our folder parts are all made in the USA with tolerance machined at +/- .0005"
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I have about 5 things still in my cart on your site. I think I will add some stop pins as well.

The stop pins I currently have measure right at .125. So I will look for a reamer in the size .110
 
I can certainly recommend folder parts like pivots, pins and screws sold by USA Knifemaker Supply to be of the best quality in sizing, and material make up, and are listed at very good prices.
Frank
 
JPSWorks said:
Thanks for the reply. I have about 5 things still in my cart on your site. I think I will add some stop pins as well.

The stop pins I currently have measure right at .125. So I will look for a reamer in the size .110
Click to expand...

You will never get a .125" pin into a .110" hole. That is a fifteen thousandths difference. If you are set on a press fit you will want a reamer that measures .1245".

Bob
 
RangerMadeKnives said:
You will never get a .125" pin into a .110" hole. That is a fifteen thousandths difference. If you are set on a press fit you will want a reamer that measures .1245".

Bob
Click to expand...
Bob,

Glad you posted this since I haven't placed an order yet. I just adjusted my calipers to the two measurements to get a real idea if the differences and it's more considerate than I thought.

John
 
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