Questions on a jewelers saw??

C Craft

Well-Known Member
So I am looking for something I can manually cut a slot for a guard. I have been told that a Jeweler's Saw will work. Having never used one I am going off of my experience with using a coping saw.

So here is what I am looking at a 5" frame but not sure where to go with that!

Has anyone got any suggestions on which of these frames is best and why??

Also I need some blades but again without any experience with a jewelers saw I don't have a clue as to which one(s) would be best!

The Herkules 10/0 seem to be the only ones designed for metal cutting but in the description as follows,

The finest, most delicate saw blades made. Most jeweler’s supply houses don’t stock blades smaller than 8/0, because traditional jeweler’s saws have trouble properly tensioning such delicate blades. Knew Concepts saws have the most controllable tensioning mechanisms on any jeweler’s saw made. Since our saws are the first to really be able to take advantage of the 10/0 blades, it seemed like a natural fit to start carrying them. For a sense of scale, they’re roughly twice as thick as a human hair. With teeth.

[FONT=verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]They sound like they would make a very fine cut but also sound like they would be extremely easy to break!!

So has anyone got any suggestions on blades???[/FONT]


"The Montana Bladesmith"
Wish I could offer more advice, but my experiences with jeweler's saw has been very limited, and not very good. I suspect its because I just don't know enough about the blades, and which to use. Many years ago I ordered a simple setup from Rio Grande, along with a dozen of what they told me were "metal cutting" blades. (although at that time I was into it for nearly $75) My first use was to try to cut a guard slot in 1/4" X 3/4" brass. I started by drilling a 1/8" hole in what would be the center/middle of the slot. I went through all 12 blades (most of them just broke with very little pressure) before I got 1/2 the slot cut. Disgusted, I gave up and went back to the multiple hole/filing method, and stuck with that until I got a milling machine.

This thread might make me reconsider/try one of these saws again...... I'll be watching/listening. I would hope that over the last couple of decades the blades have improved dramatically......if not, I don't know it its worth a person's time/money.

C Craft

Well-Known Member
Get one from Rio Grande. Laser Gold blades

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

OK I went to their site and so my brain is on overload. From when I use to do trim carpenter work a longer stroke is good and I don't necessarily need a high hoop! At least I don't think I do. When doing trim work the high hoop was a learning curve but was great on wide base or crown but on narrow stuff the low hoop was less fight.

So I am looking for recommendations on a saw and why!!!!

Also want recommendations on blades. The really thin blades are probably great for thin material and cutting radius's but would suspect they are much like Ed spoke of looking at them will cause them to break! LOL

So again please give me your recommendations and why you feel that way and I can work on it from there, "I hope"!:31:

EDIT: Just checked the prices on those Laser Gold blades and whoooooooooooooa they do think they are real gold!!!!!! Ye ow!!!!!
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New Member
unless you are going to be doing alot of work with different depths get a fixed frame {Rio Item #: 110059 will probably work fine) ............... 4-0 3-0 are for jewelry work and not heavy enough for any thickness (and they will all cut metal)........will probably need at least a #2 or heavier blade

you tension them by putting the lower part of the blade in first and then push against the bench with you chest and tighten the top small ones (8-0) will break if too tight

I'm old school and use the German ones (Herkules)


[h=4]Swiss 3" Saw Frame[/h]Item #: 110059

C Craft

Well-Known Member
Larry thanks for the info. The saw frame you referenced specs are as follows:

Dimensions: 3-1/2"D x 11"H (88.9 x 279.4mm)

So is this how
they are reading those dimensions???? Excuse the funky drawing of a jewelers saw but was trying to make a point. I am confused as to what the 11" H means!!! H usually indicates height!!!:les:
I am trying to figure this out so I can order the frame I want!!

OK at the sake of asking a dumb question I don't mind asking a question!! It is only dumb when you don't ask! So I went to the well to get a drink of water and found out I was basically correct in my assumption. Still not sure why the (H) is called H but it means what I thought!! I think I would have designated (H) as L, for length. Then again this are made across the pond I think! LOL

So here is the message I sent to Rio Grande: German adjustable Jewelers saw frames. Item #: 110042, Dimensions: 5-1/2"D x 13"H How are those dimensions read?

Here is the reply I received late today:
Hi Clifton,

Thanks for emailing us!

The saw frame measures 5-1/2” from the handle to the top of the saw frame, and measures 13” from the edge of the handle to the other start of the frame.

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C Craft

Well-Known Member
Got my saw frame and some blades, sooooooooooooo when I get caught up on all the yard work. I will have to try this out! I will say this Rio Grande has an excellent customer service!!! Will report on this one when I get the time to use the saw and blades!!!!

Daniel Rohde

Well-Known Member
I have one, and I love it! I think a jewelers saw is definitely easier than a series of holes and then filling, though filing is inevitable....


Well-Known Member
Jeweler's saw blades come in sizes from 10 (largest) to 10/0 (thinnest). The correct saw blade to use measures 3 teeth for the size of the metal to be cut. Different sizes for different gauges of metal. Don't try to cut hardened steel...unless you have a million saw blades and handle frustration well. I have used a saw to preform blades and it takes a loooong time...but the detail can be wonderful.