Quench Question for kitchen knife makers.

Fred Rowe

Well-Known Member
I'm forging a run of kitchen knives from W2 steel. The first set came out quite thin; .098 spine @ shoulders .030 at the edge. I've run all the heat cycles on these and know the grain to be refined, I ran stress relief as well. I'm quenching in Parks 50 @ 130fh.

Because they are thin; I've built an alum. clamp using 3/4" x 3" x 12" inch bar stock. This clamp adjust for both distal taper and bevel angle.

MY QUESTION: How long would you leave these thin blades in the quench oil before moving to the alum. clamp. With stock this thin, how long do you think it will take to pass the pearlite nose? These blades will be painted for hamons using PBC anti scale compound.

I've not had trouble with warp using this steel when the spine is at .120 but these are thin, whats your best guess?

Thanks, Fred

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I quench thin W2 just like thicker, except shorten the initial quench to about 2 seconds, interrupt for 3, then back in for a few seconds. I would think you would have no issues with clamping at that point. I tend to straighten by hand at that point rather than using clamps. It takes less than a second to get past the nose, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of a second? My quench only applies if you are trying for a hamon.
 
Hey Warren, as you know, I have no clue. However, you have been kind enough to respond to my posts so the least I can do is weigh in on yours. :)

Wallace
 
I quench thin W2 just like thicker, except shorten the initial quench to about 2 seconds, interrupt for 3, then back in for a few seconds. I would think you would have no issues with clamping at that point. I tend to straighten by hand at that point rather than using clamps. It takes less than a second to get past the nose, maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of a second? My quench only applies if you are trying for a hamon.

Hi Warren, The thin stock will cool quickly and I think the 2 to 3 second in the quench will work. As long as its past the flash point it should work. I've got tapered clamps distal taper as well as the bevel angle. I'm going to run the thinest one first and see how it works. If I'm good there the others will be pretty easy.

Thanks for your input, Fred
 
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