As promise here are a few close-up pics of the different parts of the knife as well as an exploded view. I'll try do describe what is wrong in each (some things are obvious) and how I think I will approach the problem the next time. I am wordy so this may be quite long.
First is the exploded view. 19 pieces in all. 2 more if you count the pins in the brass “flowers” which are a press fit. The connecting screw is attached to the tang with a pin. I will use a small screw the next time. I think I lost 4 of those in all while taking it apart.
I will also have a thicker tang so that I can bevel the end so that the screw head is the same thickness. As it stands I need to drill round slot for it to pass through the wooden part of the handle.
Next is one of the views of the guard. As you can see, 2 things are wrong. The fit of the little decoration (no idea how to call it) is not the best and the sides are open. I would have liked it to enclose the blade but that would require brazing and skills that are more jewelry oriented that I don't posses yet. I'd love to take a course or 2 of basic jewelry making. I am sure it would help. You can also see the gap between handle, spacer, and guard. The fit is good, it is just a problem with the retaining nut on the handle which I'll describe later.
Another view of the guard. In this one you can see 2 things. Well one may be a little harder. One of the brass nuts is off centered a smudge and it ends up lower not centered and lower than the other. See they are made of one piece and I don't know how to cut threads on the lathe yet. So I used dies and I always end up with crooked threads even if I try using the drill press or mill or lathe for alignment. Gotta learn to cut threads on the old SB9. The other flaw is with the guard shaping. As you can see the recessed carving could be cleaner. That is something that I could and probably will correct as it doesn't involve redoing something. I was just out of steam for the whole project.
As you can see, the whole guard is also not symmetrical. As I found out, also by looking at a recent WIP by Steve Culvert (thanks by the way :thumbup
, metal carving need precise layout. “Winging it”, which is what I did here, just doesn't cut it, no pun intended.
While I am on the subject, I bought a small chuck for one of my Dremels. Had I known these existed I would have outfitted all the Dremels a long time ago. Cheap (20$) and so much faster and easier than the darn key thing.
Next is a pics someone requested of the “pommel” (don't know how to call it) decorations. These turned out ok. I just will do a little more carving/engraving/details next time.
Next pic will be disappointing for many that thought that I had come up with an ingenious way of securing the take down. (Sorry Bruce
And yes you were right, simple just doesn't seem to cut it anymore sadly.
) I had a few ideas in mind but as I said before, I just ran out of steam.
It is simply a tapered insert. And the taper is not pronounced enough, hence my reluctance of tightening it too much and the earlier problem about the tight fit of the handle/spacer/guard. Oh well...
Last thing I wanted to talk about was the grind. I did this on a “stock” 10” KMG wheel. As you can imagine it doesn't work for every part of the grind as the geometry varies in width and curvature. I used the “corner” of the wheel for the upper inside part. I put a pic to try and illustrate better. I don't know how to explain it. I would just end up writing a page long essay that would leave more questions than answers.
One thing I can say it that doing this with a hollow grind was easier than a flat grind. You guys surely know this but once you establish the “groove” with a hollow grind, it make sit easier to move it up until you meet your middle line. You can actually feel the wheel in the groove helping to locate where you are. With a flat grind you can't, well “I” can't anyway.
This brings me to another tip that may help. There is no way I can do a grind this complex in full “pulls” across the whole blade like I usually do. Once the basic groove was established, well away from the center line, I worked on small sections about the width of the wheel starting at the ricasso. Once the first section is moved a little closer to the center line you move on to the next using the first one as a starting point and guide and so on. Go all the way to the tip in steps like this and start back at the ricasso until you've moved you grind to the center line. If you go over the line a little you can cheat by carefully using the flat platen to grind a little flat back to center and starting again. Of course this is just for minor corrections or it will throw the whole grind out of whack.
Finally as you can imagine, this is not a true hollow grind. As you move up the blade the width of the blade is so small that it becomes almost a flat grind because of the large diameter of the wheel. I guess it would be possible to reduce wheel diameter as you go to keep it a hollow grind but the last one would have to be a very small diameter wheel and blending all this smoothly is a sure way to end up in a padded room with a straight-jacket.
Finally I'd like to explain why I point out the flaws. I point them out because I don't want to misrepresent myself. In spite of the digital limitations of this media I consider all of you like friends, many good ones. Hiding even small things would feel the same as lying straight to your face. I am also concerned by aspiring knifemakers seeing my progression as more/faster than it actually is and feeling discouraged by their own progress not measuring. I don't know if that makes sense.
Don't hesitate if you have questions, or simply want to tell me to shut up.
