Patterns organised

Von Gruff

Well-Known Member
#1
With a little down time I was able to get all my standard patterns transfered to sheet steel and hung on the wall


I now have a pic of them that can be used when I am asked what I make and then a decision can be more easily made as to were to start the discussion.

 

opaul

Well-Known Member
#2
That is awesome and I know it was time consuming. The work will pay off. I wish I had started doing this from the get go.
your knives are really nice.
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
#6
I've been thinking about that. Of course back in the day, almost all kitchen knives were carbon steel if I remember correctly. Weren't all the Old Hickory kitchen, butcher knives carbon steel. I've made three 01 tool steel paring knives and haven't had any complaints, but I let them know up front that they will stain and patina.
 

Von Gruff

Well-Known Member
#7
It has crossed my mind to make a set and see how they are excepted. I did make a couple for myself to test design criteria but used commercial hacksaw blades although they are all done in the hardened state and not something I want to make a practice of even if I could get a sufficient supply of the old swedish blades
 
#8
With a little down time I was able to get all my standard patterns transfered to sheet steel and hung on the wall


I now have a pic of them that can be used when I am asked what I make and then a decision can be more easily made as to were to start the discussion.

Look at my new set of templates .... MUAHAHAHAH! Just kidding.... maybe lol

Edit: I really would like to try a few of these... they look awesome, Gruff!
 

John Wilson

Well-Known Member
#10
All of my kitchen blades have been done in stainless, but I want to do some in carbon. I think I may force the patina myself and sell them that way rather than try to explain to people that the patina is normal, and actually desirable.
 

Von Gruff

Well-Known Member
#11
All of my kitchen blades have been done in stainless, but I want to do some in carbon. I think I may force the patina myself and sell them that way rather than try to explain to people that the patina is normal, and actually desirable.
John, when you patina the blade which is easy enough, what do you do for the tang on full tang knives
 

Von Gruff

Well-Known Member
#13
Thanks, the patterns are full size as my scribe can mark very close but in any case I grind out the scribe mark and check when I put the pattern back over the blank to mark in holes and makers mark locations. Occasionally have to do a little touch up.
 

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
#15
Good point 07............it's easy to take the same pattern and end up with an oversized knife.
I am getting ready to start making patterns for some of the knives that I make. Was gonna undersize pattern by 1/16" of an inch and then use a 1/8" transfer punch around the pattern to scribe onto the steel.
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
#16
I am getting ready to start making patterns for some of the knives that I make. Was gonna undersize pattern by 1/16" of an inch and then use a 1/8" transfer punch around the pattern to scribe onto the steel.
Most of my knives are one offs but some are very similar. I have a few that I'm really beginning to like that I'll most likely make patterns. I'd like to get down to about three or four favorites and keep it there. I'm beginning to like knives under 7" with a max blade of about 3.25"
 

John Wilson

Well-Known Member
#17
John, when you patina the blade which is easy enough, what do you do for the tang on full tang knives
My apologies- I have not done this. I was speculating that in the future I want to offer carbon steel kitchen knives, and if I do- then I will probably patina them myself. Having said that, on a full tang knife I would patina the blade before mounting the scales, then after the handle is done I would apply whatever agent (mustard, vinegar, etc) to the exposed tang with a thin brush or cotton swab. As long as the scales are finished I don't think it would discolor the scales.
 
#18
DSC01222.JPG When I did my skinner I etched and then epoxied the scales. It was a bit tricky but i didn't have to re acid etch the blade. I used vinegar and "browning" solution...the result is holding up well.
 

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
#19
I have't done it but I have a Demascus blade I wanted to keep blackend also asked the same question. Some of the responses included Epoxy and Corby screws.
 
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