New to the site.

C

cajundad

Well-Known Member
Howdy all:

I'm new to the site. I have been interested in knife making for a few years but have yet to delve into it so I'm buying some blacksmith tools as I find them in prepaation of buying a forge, grinder etc.. I've been a little shocked at the prices of belt grinders (good ones) so I'm considering building my own when I finally decide to make the plunge.
Hoping that y'all will be able to help out with your feedback when the time is right. In the meantime, I've been looking at different knife makers on Instagram. Most seem to be in Pakistan, very willing to sell anything they have but I've read to approach overseas sellers with great caution. So I am. I'd much prefer to buy USA or Canadian made knives or other "stuff" as long as it's not made in CHINA!!
 
Thanks much. I'm checking out the forum post on the different steels. I've been told that D2, 1095 & 440C are the ONLY steel to consider for knives but I'm finding out differently. I'm researching the market for a long bowie and a skinner/guthook and was told D2 is the ONLY way to go but I'm still researching. Thoughts?
 
Welcome - you'll find out quick enough reading the forums - experienced guys offer up tons of great info...lots willing to help out. Where you from? I'm based in NOLA...
 
cajundad said:
Thanks much. I'm checking out the forum post on the different steels. I've been told that D2, 1095 & 440C are the ONLY steel to consider for knives but I'm finding out differently. I'm researching the market for a long bowie and a skinner/guthook and was told D2 is the ONLY way to go but I'm still researching. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Howdy!

D2 is a fine steel for some purposes, just as most other steels are. It is, however, a high carbide volume steel, which adds wear resistance, but decreases toughness. Popular tougher carbon steels, especially for bowies, tend to be 5160, 80CrV2, 52100, 1080/1084, etc.
 
Welcome to the addiction, cajundad. I'd suggest finding, joining and participating in your local blacksmithing group. That will shorten your learning curve significantly as well as probably be a good resource for tools.
 
billyO said:
Welcome to the addiction, cajundad. I'd suggest finding, joining and participating in your local blacksmithing group. That will shorten your learning curve significantly as well as probably be a good resource for tools.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, unfortunately, I know of no one in my area (so far) that is making knives. I'm sure they exist, I just haven't found them yet.
 
MarcWeitz said:
Welcome - you'll find out quick enough reading the forums - experienced guys offer up tons of great info...lots willing to help out. Where you from? I'm based in NOLA...
Click to expand...
Originally from the Lafayette area. Now living in TN. in the middle of nowhere in the Mountains. :)
 
cajundad said:
Thanks for the advice, unfortunately, I know of no one in my area (so far) that is making knives. I'm sure they exist, I just haven't found them yet.
Click to expand...
Most blacksmithing groups will have bladesmiths as members too.
 
Welcome aboard, enjoy the ride.
Regarding steel selection, use this forum's search feature and dig around in past conversations, it's a gold mind of knowledge.
 
cajundad said:
Now living in TN. in the middle of nowhere in the Mountains.
Click to expand...
Lucky you and welcome to the best forum on the net.
Because you are not only new to making blades but also new to steel and its properties you have a lot to learn BEFORE you go and start deciding on what steel is best for what application. No one steel does everything perfectly and the same steel's property can vary greatly depending on how it's heat treated. Heat treatment depends on what knowledge, experience and tools you have at your disposal. You can see what world you are entering. D2 steel heat treated incorrectly can be marginally better than mild steel. I do not say any of this to insult you in any way but more to encourage you to continue your research.
If you were shocked at grinder prices then I would venture to say you have not looked at heat treat ovens yet so are you wanting to heat treat your own blades or send them out to a heat treater person? By answering this question first the forum members can begin to give you good advice on steel choices.
 
Chris Railey said:
Lucky you and welcome to the best forum on the net.
Because you are not only new to making blades but also new to steel and its properties you have a lot to learn BEFORE you go and start deciding on what steel is best for what application. No one steel does everything perfectly and the same steel's property can vary greatly depending on how it's heat treated. Heat treatment depends on what knowledge, experience and tools you have at your disposal. You can see what world you are entering. D2 steel heat treated incorrectly can be marginally better than mild steel. I do not say any of this to insult you in any way but more to encourage you to continue your research.
If you were shocked at grinder prices then I would venture to say you have not looked at heat treat ovens yet so are you wanting to heat treat your own blades or send them out to a heat treater person? By answering this question first the forum members can begin to give you good advice on steel choices.
Click to expand...
You're correct, I haven't looked at any type of heat ovens (yet). Depending on costs, I may decide to do everything on my own or not. If I were to decide to purchase my first heat oven, what site is your recommendation?
 
One reason I asked is if you are going to forge your blades then by buying a forge you will have the ability to forge your knives to shape but you can also do some heat treat in a forge. Generally speaking, heat treating in a forge is what is known as "simple heat treat:. Th reason it is called that is because most forges lack the precise temperature control needed for most heat treating protocols. Some steels, like D2, have to be brought to a very specific temp or range and held there for a period of time to allow the proper changes to occur in the steel. While there are ways to gain decent temp control from your forge (thermocouples and such) I will assume that to begin with you will be using a normal forge with no temperature control. Most of us here started with that same setup and many still use it. So if this is true and you intend to forge your blades then I would initially do simple heat treat in my forge. It is relatively easy to accomplish with the correct steel. Two of the steels which respond best to simple heat treat are 1080 and 1084. Once you get your forge and start to pound steel I would go to Kevin Cashen's website and order his guide to heat treating 1080 and 1084. It is a very well produced video from the master himself on not only the how to's of getting the most out of those steels but the corresponding why's as well. In my opinion only, it will be a long time before you get to the point where you would need to consider using another steel to make your knives and therefore a long time before you "need" the precise control of a heat treat oven to unlock the potentials of other steels in order to better your work.
 
cajundad said:
Originally from the Lafayette area. Now living in TN. in the middle of nowhere in the Mountains. :)
Click to expand...
welcome! Middle of nowhere in the mountains!! Sweet! Pics or it didn't happen! Lol!

Also, One of the guys I have learned a lot from is Mike Stewart from bark River Knives. They do not use D2 because the carbide clumps are so large it makes the steel prone to chipping. The new cpm-d2 is just fine though. (powdered metal) but still not a good beginner steel.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top