need large folder parts, Where can I find them

Gahagan

Well-Known Member
I have started my first flippers for a friend of mine in SF group. He wanted a 1/4 blade on these so I have produced one but am finding it hard to find parts that will fit it. The longest I can find is .50" long on the screws, pivots and stops. I need .60-.65 or close to that as I can get but have yet to find anything over .50. Also he wants something alittle differnt for the pivot than the standard hex head pivot. Can someone tell me where to find parts liek these. The pivots are 1/4, the stops are 7/16, and the screws are 4-40 thread button head screws. Here is what I have so far but am looking for parts to finish it.
 

Gahagan

Well-Known Member
I may have to. Is 303 stainless ok for screws and stops? I have two 72" sticks of 1/4 and 7/32 I could use
 
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BRad704

Well-Known Member
I'm certainly the wrong person to answer that question... But I'm curious to know what the pro's chime in and say.

Seems weird to me that you can't find either stainless tube or a pre-threaded barrel type nut that you could modify to work. At least for the standoffs, maybe not so much the pivot.

Ummm, actually (sorry for the stream-of-consciousness typing), but as long as the pivot reached through one slab, through the blade, and at least partly into the second slab, wouldnt that keep things aligned and working? I supposed you would have to regulate pivot tightness very carefully, or use a threaded spacer on your male-side of the pivot to take up the gap.
 

Calvin Robinson

Moderator Christian Forum
I may have to. Is 303 stainless ok for screws and stops? I have two 72" sticks of 1/4 and 7/32 I could use
Yes,303 will work. It's tougher to machine than 416 but it will work just fine. Make your own parts if you have the capability. That's one of the things that I like about making folders,making all those small parts to close tolerance.
 

Gahagan

Well-Known Member
The pivot is the main thing. It goes through the fist handle and throught the blade but wont go into the secound handle and it tends to mis align and the bearing slides around on the secound half.
 

Curtiss Knives

KD Founding Member #1, Knifemaker
Have you tried counter boring "making a pocket" for the pivot head and screw head to sit in? That will shorten your length needed.
 

Gahagan

Well-Known Member
Yes they are counter bored some but I dont want to go in to far as I am worried about strength. These knives are going to see some hard abuse. the pivot pin is my main concern here as it is the main pivot fro the blade. I want as much strength there as possible. I like the idea of having alot of material there to hold the pivot.
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
We are working on some longer pivots.
These will be straight barrel and we currently have 1/8" x .75" in 2-56 under production and next is 3/16"x .75" in 4-40 thread.

The reason you don't find longer pivots is because a standard tap is only so long and custom taps are insanely expensive - if they can even be made.

Our crack machinist Travis made his own taps to fit his Swiss machine.

You should see the new longer versions listed soon. When we make a run for the 1/4" pivots, we will get a longer version of those made also.
 

tomwatson

Well-Known Member
You said your stop pins are 7/16"? Dang that is almost a half inch in diameter. Must be a bad hit on the key board. There are a lot of places to get the bolts you want, but be more specific as too correct diameter and thread. 303 is easy to machine because it has some added sulfur. I use it everyday. You can counterbore deeper than you think on these handles if they are titanium. No way are you going to tear a hole through against a 4-40 screw. Do you want socket head, button head, flat head, hex drive, torx drive, spline drive? Get your sizes right and we can help you find what you want.
 
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