Guided Sharpening systems

Justin W.

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I have been looking into getting a guided sharpening system. Iv'e seen cheap ones and I have seen really expensive ones. I have also seen ones that you can make(which I would totally be up for if I found one that worked well). I have been using my belt grinder lately and would like to give one of these things a go but I am feeling a bit lost as for what I should go with. Any guidance is appreciated.

Justin W.

Well-Known Member
OK I believe I have seen both of those but what makes then so expensive they look like filing jigs with whetstone but maybe I am missing something
Justin....I have thought the same thing....they look simple.
I believe what you are paying for is the engineering....they work. All the kinks/bugs have been ironed out...a home brew could work too...but probably will need tweaking. Time vs


Well-Known Member
I used a KME but it seemed like it took forever even with the diamond stones. I used to dread sharping a new knife. Got a good deal on a AMK-75 at the blade show last year and I love it. It's the best thing I've bought for the shop. The KME is under the workbench. :)


C Craft

Well-Known Member
I think this is what you are speaking of!

They are fairly cheap especially now! $30 plus shipping. If you have a sporting good store in the area you can probably buy one there. They solve the age old problem that most people have that can't sharpen a knife!!

I have always sharpened my own without any mechanical assistance. The key to getting a good edge on a knife is consistency! Every stroke you take that is not 100% identical to the last stroke, does nothing for the final sharpness! That is exactly why most folks can't sharpen a knife. Each pass is at different angle.

The first time I sharpened a knife on one. I set up the knife and went thru all grits counting the number of strokes I made flipped the knife and did the same thing. It was sharp but not as good as I could do by hand. So I went back and went thru the grits. I did a total of about 5 strokes on each side. I still was not satisfied. So I started doing one stroke per side on each grit, then I went back and made one stroke per side on the two finest grits. Then the final edge was done with the finest stone I have one stroke per side.

When I got done it was as sharp as a razor blade, once I stropped the knife I got a little nervous. The knife was a present for a fellar's Grandson. I emailed the guy and told him. I do not know the level of expertise your Grandson has in handling a knife, please be careful as this knife is sharp! After he received the knife he emailed me back and asked how I sharpened it. He said, I am avid hunter and have been around knives all my life,...…….. and that is probably the sharpest knife I have ever seen!!


Well-Known Member
I need to look up Ed's video - that's what I use. I have a Tormek that works "pretty good". I now use my 2X72 running in reverse with a good sharp 400 grit J-flex, followed up with an old belt turned backward and loaded with green compound. As Ted says, a couple of passes with the 400 grit belt to get a nice burr, then the green compound. The typical knife will shave leg (don't have much hair on arms) without really feeling any drag.

Ken H.


Forum Owner - Moderator
I'd forgotten about that sharpening video until Ted mentioned it! Its a pretty informal video, and is one of the freebies on

When it comes to sharpening, there are differing schools of thought..... some prefer a known edge angle, so they can relay that information to their clients/customers, and then there are those, such as myself, who loath angles on edges. I prefer convex edges, as I have found it produces far less cutting resistance, especially over the long term of repetitive sharpenings, versus specific angles on a blade's edge.

The video is about producing a convex edge, rather than a given angle. The question is often asked.... How do I sharpen by hand, if the blade doesn't have a specific edge angle. The answer is.... when sharpening by hand, on a stone, rather then pushing into the edge..... and using a motion like trying to shave a thin slice off the stone, the blade is drawn away from the edge, and the natural motion of the hand/arm creates/follows a motion to produce a convex edge.
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