Gas forge

opaul

opaul

Well-Known Member
I have a single burner diamond back. And it’s provided great service. However I’m now looking into getting another forge, primarily for knife making. The top three candidates are Mathewson, Majestic and Chili.
I’ve read pros and cons on all three. The Mathewson seems to have a lot of nice features.
Does anyone here have any of the above - and what’s been your experience.
 
jmforge said:
Chile
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jmforge said:
Chile
Click to expand...
Thank you. Can you give me specific reasons? It seems like - for forging blades - a round furnace is preferable, from general comments. More even heat, no direct flame on the blade and less carbon build up.
I appreciate the robust construction of the chili and their customer service. I’m not opposed to the higher price if it’s worth the extra $.
That said for the chili do you have the single or double burner?
 
Well, like many of us I do have opinions about a knifemaker's forge. A knifemaker's forge is totally different than a blacksmith's forge. The blacksmith forge will have a larger interior for odd shapes, and it's ok for the burner flame to hit directly on the billet being worked. Perhaps a good thing to quickly heat a small spot for forgeing.

A knifemaker's forge is a totally different design. Here a roundish interior with flat bottom is desired. The burner should enter about a 1/4 to 1/3 from front, angled toward the rear and upwards so the flame will NEVER hit the billet directly. The flame will swirl around the chamber giving a more even heat. With my forge built from a 30 lb propane tank a 12" billet laying in center of bottom will be a fairly even orange (ish) color from end to end with no real hot spots. This makes for a good working on the press, or hammer forging. Gives better heat control to help prevent overheating the billet in spots.

I prefer a forged air burner, they're just easier to control heat with. My first forge was a square that looks MUCH like the Majestic 2 burner knifemaker's forge. I don't remember for sure the maker, but the price is about right and it sure looks like it. It was no comparison to the current forge I've got.

That's not to say a knife can't be made with the majestic type forge, they surely can. Just more work trying to keep heat even by moving billet constantly.

Looking at the Chile forge - WOW!! the price. I don't see it. It's just so cheap and easy to get a junked 30 lb propane bottle from a propane distributor and build a proper forge.

Later
 
I know this isn't answering your question, but Atlas Forges get high regard on another forum I read. I like how their burners are angled. I prefer a blown burner, personally, but their aspirated burners seem to get good praise. I have zero experience with Atlas products.
 
One of the main considers is a hard floor to do forge welding. I may be wrong but Atlas forges aren’t set up that way.
I’d like to build my forge but right now time is at a premium.
But you are correct they get a lot of positive press.
 
opaul said:
One of the main considers is a hard floor to do forge welding. I may be wrong but Atlas forges aren’t set up that way.
I’d like to build my forge but right now time is at a premium.
But you are correct they get a lot of positive press.
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Atlas forges are cast refractory, so the floor will be hard, but not flat. If flat is a consideration, toss a piece of floor tile on the bottom while welding.
I like the looks and description of their blown Graham forge.

Hope you find exactly what you're looking for!
 
fitzo said:
Atlas forges are cast refractory, so the floor will be hard, but not flat. If flat is a consideration, toss a piece of floor tile on the bottom while welding.
I like the looks and description of their blown Graham forge.

Hope you find exactly what you're looking for!
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Thank you. I went back and looked. I see now I read the description incorrectly.
from website-
“
“May include a small bag of Plistix 900F refractory. This can be mixed and painted on the inside chamber to improve efficiency and toughness of the chamber. NOT REQUIRED FOR USE!!!

It’s more than hot enough to forge weld, but you need to use a fluxless method. Borax will damage the refractory.”
 
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opaul said:
Thank you. I went back and looked. I see now I read the description incorrectly.
from website-
“
“May include a small bag of Plistix 900F refractory. This can be mixed and painted on the inside chamber to improve efficiency and toughness of the chamber. NOT REQUIRED FOR USE!!!

It’s more than hot enough to forge weld, but you need to use a fluxless method. Borax will damage the refractory.”
Click to expand...

I missed that last line, too. Sorry. I was under the misimpression that the castable stuff held up to flux great. Or, perhaps, there are different castable refractories?
Either way, I would be hesitant to consign myself to no-flux forge welding only.
Again, sorry I missed that.
 
mike miller said:
I have a vertical Uncle Al’s forge and I filled the bottom full to soak it up. Easy to scoop out and remove!
I also keep it around for any oil spill. Just cover the spill up , leave for a while then scoop up. Spill removed.
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Trip to target tomorrow! Thanks! :)
 
opaul said:
Thank you. Can you give me specific reasons? It seems like - for forging blades - a round furnace is preferable, from general comments. More even heat, no direct flame on the blade and less carbon build up.
I appreciate the robust construction of the chili and their customer service. I’m not opposed to the higher price if it’s worth the extra $.
That said for the chili do you have the single or double burner?
Click to expand...
I have an early Habanero model with the old style burners which does not have the removable end plate or the oval shape and wide door and it is still really good. Don't ever let anyone tell you that a good venturi forge will have trouble reaching forge welding heat. Mine replaced an NC Knifemaker forge. My only complaint is that it doesn't have the larger opening and removable end cap because you will have to spruce up the coatings on occasion. the only complaint is that the "floor" which is a tile will eventually crack, but that is the case with any tile lie that. I use a piece of kiln shelf tile to protect it from flux.
 
opaul said:
Thank you. I went back and looked. I see now I read the description incorrectly.
from website-
“
“May include a small bag of Plistix 900F refractory. This can be mixed and painted on the inside chamber to improve efficiency and toughness of the chamber. NOT REQUIRED FOR USE!!!

It’s more than hot enough to forge weld, but you need to use a fluxless method. Borax will damage the refractory.”
Click to expand...
Or you just go to your local pottery store and buy a piece of kiln shelf tile and use it as a "sacrificial floor.
 
mike miller said:
I have a vertical Uncle Al’s forge and I filled the bottom full to soak it up. Easy to scoop out and remove!
I also keep it around for any oil spill. Just cover the spill up , leave for a while then scoop up. Spill removed.
Click to expand...

I agree. I had a vertical forge in a 30lb propane tank. The bottom was basically a mix of flux and kitty litter.
 
My buddy has a chili forge. Round on the outside...not on the inside.

It will definitely reach welding heat (and then some).

It definitely has a hot spot and the flame does not swirl around the inside. It is big enough to kind of get around the Hotspot but not completely.

It works fine for forging Damascus billets. It wouldn't be my first choice for forging blades or heat treating.
 
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