That is a great idea Boss. I will shove some round in there. Thanks. I have spent the last 45 minutes trying to peel the can. Do you just forge it to dimension minus the can thickness and grind it off?I would suggest putting some round stock in your dies to support the angle iron or they will buckle inward over time. They get hot and malleable so they will move.
I never try to peel the can. I just mill it or grind it off. Canister is fun and you can make some insanely cool stuff but the learning curve is steep.
That is a great idea Boss. I will shove some round in there. Thanks. I have spent the last 45 minutes trying to peel the can. Do you just forge it to dimension minus the can thickness and grind it off?
Thanks Ed. I intended to soot the can up but I completely forgot until after I built the can and the forge was hot. I figured if rust was good soot and rust would be great but naw, I forgot. I am about to go out and forge it down to a billet then grind the can off. I already cut the ends off with my chop saw and the ends are solid so that is a good sign. I will post pics tonight.Well, it sounds like you've already done the hard part.....welding it. I was gona chime in on that, but no need now.
Grinding the can off is a pain, but if you have a mill/face mill, it's just tedious. It's very rare that anyone gets a "can" to peel off cleanly. If the rust thing isn't working, and you have an oxy/acetylene torch, you can cover the can's interior with acetylene soot, but that can be hit-n-miss too. I shy away for the whiteout thing....only because it's about $40 worth of whiteout to line one of my cans....and it doesn't work any better than anything else.
Unless I intend to clean all the can off a billet and use in in a composite, I tend to build my cans in such a manner, that I can leave it a 1/4" or so larger than the finished width I want, and saw slices off the can/billet. You do have to remember how thing are oriented, and as I always say, I err on the side of leaving things too large....because I can always grind it off/down..... but if its too small, I can never put anything back.
Over the years I have built my shop tools, to handle/make very large cans..... with the idea being that if I start with a 4-5" square can, by the time it's down to 1 1/4- 1 1/2", that can is really thin......and then, as long as I've been careful to keep things square, it's usually a single pass per side on the face mill.....and it's clean. The other benefit being that I get a large number off slices/billets off the bigger cans.
Make sure you post some pics!!!