Finish for Thuya Burl?

KenH

Well-Known Member
Hello all - does anyone have experience with Thuya Burl wood for knife scales? When used un-stabilized, what is considered a good finish? I've tested a single scale with just sanding to 1,000 grit, then polish with 3M's Blue Aluminum Oxide 281Q 9 Micron/2000 grit. Then just touch with clean buffing wheel with just a tad of pink rouge. Looks good, but would like to have a bit more "pop" to it.

CA finish? Tru-Oil finish?

Ken H>
 
I've worked with a lot of Thuya....don't attempt any type of a liquid or oil finish..... you'll just have a mess. With what you've already described, my final step would be a good coat of paste wax and buff with a clean cloth. (just make sure it's a silicone free wax, for some reason silicon waxes leave a splotchy look on Thuya).... my favorite is Mother's Caranube cleaner/wax. Thuya will not get a super glossy look, no matter what you do.....its the oils/resins in the wood.
 
Hello all - does anyone have experience with Thuya Burl wood for knife scales? When used un-stabilized, what is considered a good finish? I've tested a single scale with just sanding to 1,000 grit, then polish with 3M's Blue Aluminum Oxide 281Q 9 Micron/2000 grit. Then just touch with clean buffing wheel with just a tad of pink rouge. Looks good, but would like to have a bit more "pop" to it.

CA finish? Tru-Oil finish?

Ken H>


Ken,
I worked with some Thuya and Ed has pretty well spelled out my experiences. Oil & glue just make it a big ugly mess. High sand and buff with white.
 
Thanks Laurence - that's what I found with Thuya, but I knew I didn't have ANY experience with it. It does look nice with just a nice buff. Do you have use it stabilized? Doesn't seem to need stabilizing with all the resins in the wood. With wood nice 'n dry, is there ever any chance of resin "leaking" out?

Ken H>
 
I've made literally hundreds of steak knives with thuya burl handles. I started with the premise that I wanted it stabilized because the stuff cracks just looking at it and weeps resin for years. I started by cutting up a whole burl into oversize blocks. The burl was many years old. Because the stuff leaks resin so bad, I put it in the oven at 170F for 48 hours. It bled resin. You'll either love or hate the smell of thuya. :)

I lost between 25% and 30% of the blocks to cracking, but the bonus was that what was left stabilized very well. I finished the handles with 10 coats of polymerized tung oil - 24 hours minimum between coats and got a nice gloss finish. Too glossy, so I toned it down with a light buff with 0000 steel wool. The agreement was that the blades were never to see a dish washer. That lasted about a week until someone put one through by accident and it survived. The blades survived four years of commercial dishwasher cycles before they were sent back to me for refinishing.

I'm going to suggest that Thuya Burl is the most beautiful of all woods (IMHO), but I would not use it unstabilized.

Rob!
 
I've made literally hundreds of steak knives with thuya burl handles. I started with the premise that I wanted it stabilized because the stuff cracks just looking at it and weeps resin for years. I started by cutting up a whole burl into oversize blocks. The burl was many years old. Because the stuff leaks resin so bad, I put it in the oven at 170F for 48 hours. It bled resin. You'll either love or hate the smell of thuya. :)

I lost between 25% and 30% of the blocks to cracking, but the bonus was that what was left stabilized very well. I finished the handles with 10 coats of polymerized tung oil - 24 hours minimum between coats and got a nice gloss finish. Too glossy, so I toned it down with a light buff with 0000 steel wool. The agreement was that the blades were never to see a dish washer. That lasted about a week until someone put one through by accident and it survived. The blades survived four years of commercial dishwasher cycles before they were sent back to me for refinishing.

I'm going to suggest that Thuya Burl is the most beautiful of all woods (IMHO), but I would not use it unstabilized.

Rob!

Rob,
So you baked out the oil and then it would take Tung oil on the surface and it soaked it up. Interesting.
 
Rob,
So you baked out the oil and then it would take Tung oil on the surface and it soaked it up. Interesting.

Yes, exactly. I'm sure there was still oil left, but it sure wasn't weeping anymore after 48 hours. Before that, I had Mike do some without the pre-baking and it was hopeless (with the stated expectation it would not work) - soft inside and weeping through whatever went on it. This method was expensive in destroyed wood, but allowed the use of this beautiful wood in a challenging environment.

That was a scary time. $27 a pound for a 130 pound burl and I had to pay for it before they cut into it. Turned out to be the most gorgeous burl I've ever seen, without any flaws - dense, rich figure and perfect color.

Rob!
 
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