Epoxy

T

TomMegow

Active Member
I have finally used ally epoxy glue. I was using Golf Smith during the Epoxy Wars (I think Tracy did all the research)
Is West System still one of the best still? Has anything else on the market now??
Thanks
Tom
Cent. Ala.
 
Two come to mind. Years ago, I needed something for Steak knives that would be going into commercial service with Thuya Burl handles. I got an epoxy called G2 from Industrial Formulators that is specifically designed for oily / waxy woods like Thuya or Cocobolo. It has give me outstanding results on everything I've used it on. The second is a product from Loctite called 300 depend. (I think they also have a related product I have not used) The depend is a two part (spray one side / resin other - no mixing) I've also had excellent results with that for knife handles and beyond and it is very easy to use. Last thought - since you are asking, one wonders if you are having problems with your current product. I've found that adequate mixing can be a problem when I get in a rush. Always make a point of mixing epoxy parts twice as long as you think you need to. Way easier than replacing scales later. :)
 
Hi Tom,
I did the the glue wars with another guy.
I haven't seen many new adhesives hit the market since then. West System is used to build boats and airplanes. It's pretty good stuff. It's not cheap but it's pretty good.
The Loctite stuff, Speedbonder series (324,325,326) is industrial quality and works really well. Depend 330 also from Loctite is more a general purpose and works really well. 3M has some fantastic adhesives it is just getting access to test, try and purchase the 3M line seems to be a bit less developed for the knife community than Henkel has proven to be. I have an in with 3M now and will see what I can do about it.

A good surface prep will help an average or mediocre adhesive outperform the best adhesive on the market.
The manufactures all sand blast their test coupons for a reason, it is the best surface prep they can come up with.
 
I bought the huge bottle of Acraglas from Brownells almost 18 months ago and it has served me well. From the looks of it, I might get another year or so out of the bottle! I tend to use more hardner than is needed, which means I'll probably have to buy a bottle of that before long. But it's tough stuff, you don't want to try and remove handles from a knife after this stuff has set up. I also like it because it has a long pot life and I don't have to hurry to get the handles epoxied up.
 
Tracy thanks for all the hard work ya'll did on the first Glue Wars. I am sure your wife's Dishwasher is glad it's over
If you do a 3M evaluation it would be well done as well and very educational I am sure
I do forget just how important surface prep, thanks for the reminder
Don I forgotten about Acraglas thanks for the help
Tom
 
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Glue wars can be entertaining but that's about it. The strongest glue in the universe is inferior to the weakest mechanical connection. It makes no sense to be a glue warrior and not use a mechanical connection. How much glue war "data" spans the life of a well made tool? If you are serious about joining two things together don't depend on a chemical bond that degrades over time.


IMG_1532.jpg
 
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I do the same. Sandblasting all mating surfaces gives the epoxy sealant its best chance to work. Allow the epoxy to do what it does best - seal and allow the bolts to do what they do best - form a mechanical connection between the scales and tang. Pins are more ubiquitous than most people think. There are a fair number of "pinheads" out there.



rhinoknives said:
I use both!
So do most makers, I use Loveless bolts and a strong epoxy or glue to seal out moisture which protects the mechanical connection.


Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
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good morning
has anyone had any luck with the dual tube single nozzle epoxies? a lot of loctite and 3m is sold this way. is it a one use item or can you reuse? we use 3m scotchhbond at the office to set studs in concrete or mend broken concrete, have found adhesives designed for wood/metal use but again is packed in dual tube/single nozzle.
thanks,
scott
 
scott.livesey said:
good morning
has anyone had any luck with the dual tube single nozzle epoxies? a lot of loctite and 3m is sold this way. is it a one use item or can you reuse? we use 3m scotchhbond at the office to set studs in concrete or mend broken concrete, have found adhesives designed for wood/metal use but again is packed in dual tube/single nozzle.
thanks,
scott
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Scott, The double tube epoxies work fine. I have used the Devcon 2 ton for many years.

As Bossdog pointed out your prep of the area to be glued is a large part of how well any epoxy works.
Watch out for contaminates like oil, lube, wax etc. I keep all of those kind of items on the other side of the shop from where I store and do my epoxy work.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
scott.livesey said:
good morning
has anyone had any luck with the dual tube single nozzle epoxies? a lot of loctite and 3m is sold this way. is it a one use item or can you reuse? we use 3m scotchhbond at the office to set studs in concrete or mend broken concrete, have found adhesives designed for wood/metal use but again is packed in dual tube/single nozzle.
thanks,
scott
Click to expand...

I have used Loctite, 3m and Depend. The dual tubes can be used multiple times until you have used most of it up. It is a good method for smaller quantities.
 
Just tried some JB Weld "Clear" seems to work well. I have never seen the clear before so I decided to give it a try. With the JB Weld name, it's hard not to!

God Bless
Mike
 
I use West Systems G-Flex 650-8. Marine grade and very high holding strength. Also takes dyes very well. I use pins and corby screws also for the mechincal aspect of added holding strength.
 
I use about a hundred tubes a show season of 3M Scotch-Weld D100 in the double tubes....It is outstanding, will stick to bare aluminum but expensive to get into....The gun, nozzles and glue will set ya back about a $100.00....The advantage is, as The Boss said, there is no waste...Leave the old mixing nozzle on and it will harden in the end and put a new one on next time...Mixing nozzles are about .50 -.60 cents each...Best prices I've found is Amazon...http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-Epoxy-Adhesive-1-7-Ounce/dp/B0012O2EFC
 
Bush Monkey said:
Glue wars can be entertaining but that's about it. The strongest glue in the universe is inferior to the weakest mechanical connection. It makes no sense to be a glue warrior and not use a mechanical connection. How much glue war "data" spans the life of a well made tool? If you are serious about joining two things together don't depend on a chemical bond that degrades over time.


IMG_1532.jpg
Click to expand...

Since you mentioned it, do you mind sharing where you found the black oxide torx screws. Also, what size screw and spacer are those?

(And a belated thanks for the picture of your band saw you posted at my request a few weeks back.:35: I appreciate it.)
 
USA Knifemaker .25 barrel.

This thread is starting to sound like a confessional: "I use..." is form of passive glue wars - lol. It's all good stuff when used as a sealer, in the same way that all bolts are good when used as a connection.

leozinho said:
Since you mentioned it, do you mind sharing where you found the black oxide torx screws. Also, what size screw and spacer are those?

(And a belated thanks for the picture of your band saw you posted at my request a few weeks back.:35: I appreciate it.)
Click to expand...
 
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Bush Monkey said:
USA Knifemaker .25 barrel.

This thread is starting to sound like a confessional: "I use..." is form of passive glue wars - lol. It's all good stuff when used as a sealer, in the same way that all bolts are good when used as a connection.
Click to expand...

Forgive me, cause I have sinned. I used a new epoxy and I didn't know her name and I had just met her that night! lol

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
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