Electro etching a mirror polished blade?

M

mikew

Well-Known Member
Would anyone care to share their secrets as to how this is done successfully?

I normally finish my blades to 1200 grit then, after etching my makers mark, give them a couple of strokes with 1200 grit paper to crisp up my mark. I tried this same method today but followed the 1200 grit with the buffer to restore the mirror polish but this has removed the blackness and some of the definition from my mark.

Fail!

9127195992_a4d6a04bc3_z.jpg


So how's it done properly? :)
 
buffing after you etch is going to remove some of the black.
fill it back in with black paint or marker to regain some of what you lost.
 
Thanks guys, I guess I just need to do some more experimentation on scraps. It just seems like a lot of effort to mirror poilsh scraps!
 
mikew said:
Thanks guys, I guess I just need to do some more experimentation on scraps. It just seems like a lot of effort to mirror poilsh scraps!
Click to expand...

Don't give up Mike.
I don't think anyone here who's in it for the long haul hasn't spent time experimenting. I do it almost on a daily basis, mostly by accident. I do however forget that some may not have the resources that others have. A mirror polish on a piece of scrap may take only a few minutes... IF you have belts ranging from 36 up to 4500 and or cork belts or polyester polishing belts. The scrap does'nt have to be perfect, you're testing the etch not the steel. In short, it helps to have the right tool for the job which comes with effort, time and of course.....lots of $$$$$$. Most of all, an adventurous spirit. It's usually frustrating but fun.:49::31::biggrin:

Rudy
 
Rudy Joly said:
Try this, it works.
You may need a different etching fluid for deep etches. This eliminated cleaning up the mark on the buffer. Practice on some scrap till you get the hang of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3i3h4v27As&feature=player_embedded

Rudy
Click to expand...

Rudy, I watched the video and I'm wondering how this works so well. I've always seen etching as a two step process; one to take metal away and one to blacken the mark. Yet he does it all in one step. How in the world does this work? I'm pulling my hair out trying to get a good etch on my knives.
Thanks for any help you can send my way.
 
Jim,

In the comments below the video Brian says he's etching on AC. This is the darkening setting for the two step etch.

I do the two step without trouble but I may give this a try

-Josh
 
Josh, I did catch that comment. I didn't think you could etch and darken in the same process. Time to head out to the shop and try it.
thanks
 
As you already know, in the video he's just marking in AC. Thats pretty much a surface mark, in my experimenting I found after trying to rub the mark off that it does etch to a certain extent. It's depends on how many passes you make and in my case, the settings on your machine. My Marking Methods machine has multiple power settings. I think the process works because the amonia in the glass cleaner is a barrier to any etchant that may migrate and cause ghosting. I may be wrong, but that's my story and sticking to it.


All that aside...
The original problem was etching and marking a mirror polished blade without ghosting. I still tape my stencil just along the top so I can lift it to check the etch. After taping it, I give the area under the stencil a little squirt of glass cleaner and squeeze out the extra with a rub of my finger. It creates a little suction to the stencil. I deep etch to my satisfaction and do a couple marking passes in AC. There's a couple things that are more important than anything else, #1....the etching solution DOES make a difference. Salt water mixes are a waste of time and caused brown ghosting on carbon steel. #2....I made my own marking peices, the giant marking surface of the generic markers only help to cook your stencil and make ghosting worse. If you have too much etchant under the stencil, the large pad only helps to spread the electrical current around the etch. My markers are 1/4"x 5/8" and 3/8" round. Logically, you want to pin point the current to where it's needed, not to the surrounding real estate. #3...I mark my blades on an alluminum plate, forget the alligator clip attached to the blank. As a happy little electron, I want to make the shortest trip possible. Using the plate, you'll feel a localized warm spot directly opposite your etch instead of with the alligator clip heating the whole blade.shorter path.

Sorry for being long winded on this one but the etching problem really ticked me off for a long while and apparently still does. lol. I almost went back to stamping. This has worked for me but your mileage may vary. Think it through if you run into snags.

Rudy
 
Rudy, thanks for your insight. Just to clarify a bit, on point #1, what etching solution do you use on carbon steel, say 1084 or 1095, and do you use the same on Damascus composed of 1084/1095 and 15N20? On point #2, in my experience I agree with you. The marking piece I have is about 3/8" x 1" and does overlap the work area a lot. I tried using a Qtip and that seemed to help. I'll try a smaller marking piece. On point #3, do you hardwire the lead to your aluminum plate? Also, what size of a plate do you recommend?
Thanks again for your help.
 
Jim,
Since they're close, I use their products.
The electrolyte I used from Etch-O-Matic in the 80's worked somewhat allright but now I get Grand Canyon deep etches. No computer back then so I was limited to magazine ads for information. (Blade magazine)

http://www.tustech.com/admin/sites/default/files/Etching Knowledge Base_0.pdf

I have'nt had a problem etching any carbon steels with their etchant. Mainly 1095, 1075, O-1 and 52100. It's worked on all damascus blanks from other makers as well as my own O-1/ 1075 mix. On the plate, I just clip my ground lead to the plate. The plate is 10"x 6"x 14 guage but I suppose anything would work as your ground. I use alluminum because there's less chance of it scratching my blade, the cabinet for my etching machine came with a stainless plate attached to the fold out cover which gave me the idea. Check your alligator clips too, the plated brass clips don't seem to work too well if the plating is worn away.

Rudy
 
thanks Rudy. I really appreciate your help. As I said before, this process is driving me nuts. I plan on taking my unit to Tracy's hammer-in in August. Hopefully I'll have this thing figured out by then, but if not hopefully some one there will be able to help out.
 
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