D'oh!!!

Drew Riley

Well-Known Member
Well... I got a little ahead of myself on one of the blades I was working on recently.

Everything was going great.... profile was done, blade grinds were coming out good, got it all prepped for heat treat.... or so I thought.

Right about the time the glowing blade hit my quenching oil, I realized I forgot one minor step:
I didn't drill the pin holes or the lanyard tube hole.

about 4 cobalt drill bits, 2 black oxide, 1 carbide tipped masonry bit and 4 titanium bits later, I have ONE pin hole completely drilled, one pin hole partially drilled (I made it through enough to get a 5/32" bit through, going for 7/32", and I got my 1/4" lanyard tube hole about half way through.

This stuff is HARD!! I tried to center punch the stuff with a pretty large punch and about a 2 lb. hammer and I didn't even make a dent.

I had no idea 1095 could get this hard... hahah.
 

CTaylorJr

Well-Known Member
That does suck, but at least you didn't epoxy the scales on BEFORE HT!!! Yeah, I did that yesterday! :52:

Not sure what type of blade you're working with, but when I've done that before with a full tang I've wrapped the blade portion in a wet towel and SLOWLY applied heat with my torch to the areas that needed the holes to anneal a bit. Still a PITA to drill, but doesn't burn up as many bits... :52:

Charlie
 

Sunshadow

Member
Diamond abrasive drill bits or burrs with lots of oil and very gentle pressure will get you through without issue

-Page
 

EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
One more reason to differentially heat treat (on those steels that allow it).....makes final assembly less troublesome, and when you "forget" a hole, you don't have to burn up all your drill bits trying to fix it.

The other option is to standardize your pin/thong hole material sizes, and keep carbide or "Hi-Roc" drill bits of those sizes on hand......even though I do a lot of differential heat treating, I keep Hi-Roc bits of the appropriate sizes around for those "oops" moments.
 

Michael Kemp

Well-Known Member
Andrew - I did that too - ONCE with 5160. I gave up after a few bits of various sorts and used some welder's insulating gel @ ricasso and brought the tang back to spring steel.
Page - diamond and light touch - that's one to file away for next time...
 

Steven Janik

SUPERMOD & AWARDS BOSS
A carbide burr in your dremel will get the hole started and then it can be enlarged with dremel chainsaw grinders and they are cheap.
 

RodneyJ

Well-Known Member
I fell your pain I'm changing the scales out on a factory knife for my doughter she ask me to add a tang hole, guess I got lucky it only took two bit.
God Bless
Rodney
 

Doug Lester

Well-Known Member
Been there, done that (does it seem that there is a theme building here). I stuck the blade of the knife in a can of wet sand as a heat sink and heated the tang with a propane torch to soften it.

Doug
 

Rob Nelson

Well-Known Member
As a newbie, I appreciate this thread ... takes some of the pressure off. I drool over the magnificent work you folks do - all the knives posted here are beautiful. I'm not even through my first one and I almost threw in the towel ... but didn't thanks to all the great encouragement in the pack!
 

Doug Lester

Well-Known Member
Chapnelson, if your first knife is something only a mother would love, you did well. Though you might want to worry if you can say the same about you're 100th knife.

Doug
 

Drew Riley

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the advice thus far guys. I ended up using a chainsaw sharpening bit in my black&decker "dremel tool" and enlarged the existing pin hole. I still need to finish drilling the lanyard tube hole, but at least I got the important holes done... ;)
 
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