CPM 3V TDP

J. ROSA

Well-Known Member
Took a lot of time off left this and some other stuff laying on my bench for several months. Got some time over the last two days and have really been aching to finish some things up and start new projects. Finally getting this one finished. 31.75" OAL, 20-3/8" blade, 19-7/8" cutting edge (when I sharpen it :D), .200" at spine, flat grind. The scales are from shadetree. I have been an admirer of Todd's work for some time and he always delivers.

[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]

I still have some cleaning up to do on it, a final fitting of the scales, sharpening the edge, etching my name, and a sheath, but I wanted to snap some pics before heading out today. It's definitely of the prybar variety but my version of a tactical dao. Any comments welcomed. Thanks for looking.
 

J. ROSA

Well-Known Member
Thanks John. I've had this design for a while and started this a while back but didn't have the stones to finish it until recently. Hopefully I can get some time to work on some more stuff. Somehow the more challenging the more fun it is. I've got the sword and folder bug bad:eek:
 

Dan Keffeler

Well-Known Member
cpm 3V is a high-carbon, high-chromium alloy and is used for low-temprature cutting tools (punches, dies, shearing blades, etc.). It is highly resistant to chipping even at 58-60 HRC) hardnesses as well as being nearly stainless. I believe the martensitic hardness is around 63 HRC.
I will see if I can post up the data sheet
Dan
 

bubba-san

Well-Known Member
Interesting , I understand it does not respond to differential ht very well ? A japanese blade with no hamon Hmmm . Although it might make a good cutter ? Japanese sword people like to see a real hamon . Nice stuff though . Thanks for info . Bubba
 

J. ROSA

Well-Known Member
With what the steel lacks in asthetics and proof of mastery over tempering from the maker it more than makes up for in functionality and performance IMO.
 

Dan Keffeler

Well-Known Member
Hey James
I didn’t know it was you . Good to here from you and I am glad to see that you are making 3v blades.
That’s a nice blade you have there. Who did your Heat treat?
Dan
 

J. ROSA

Well-Known Member
Peter's. Brad is very good with the turn around time so I'm definitely gonna send some more things when I can. I have a batch of knives I've been sitting on but my 9-5 job and school has sucked up all my time. I'm just getting back into the swing of things. A couple more prybar swords and I'll try a full hidden tang with a distilled taper. I like chinese/filipino blades and obviously fantasy pieces if they're practical/functional.
 

bubba-san

Well-Known Member
With what the steel lacks in asthetics and proof of mastery over tempering from the maker it more than makes up for in functionality and performance IMO.
I made , and I mean made , a wakizashi from pm D-7 which is in my opinion is the king of cutting steels . extremely hard to forge , so I ground it out . took several weeks . It took 4 cycles to soften it just a little . As I worked it , became hard again . when I finally finished it I was able to drive a hardened piece of it through a piece of 1095 cro-van !!!. I was curious did you forge that blade or grind it ? The reason I ask , I think I may use some for a core in some san mai. I have been using s-4 s-7 which works pretty good . The d-7 I tried to use for core , would not forge press even at 35 tons .It was white hot when pressed . I was wondering how well cpm 3-V forges ? the reason no one uses D-7 much its too hard to work or forge... thanks bubba-san D-7 specs
http://www.diehlsteel.com/d7.aspx
2.30
.40
.40
12.50

1.10


4.00


ADVANTAGES:

Outstanding wear resistance.
Optimum size stability.
Deep hardening.

APPLICATIONS:

Ceramic Dies
Burnishing Tools

Coining Dies
Forming Rolls

Can Dies
Lamination Dies

Extrusion Dies
Paper Knives

Lathe Centers
Draw Dies

Punches
Slitters
 
Last edited:

J. ROSA

Well-Known Member
I ground this one out and I found it pretty easy to do so. I haven't personally forged 3v. I know others have though and the ones that have told me it wasn't really that bad to forge but I guess that may depend on what tools you're working with. A while back someone told me if I was going to forge it to forge it at a slightly lower temp because it moves a little better under the hammer that way but honestly I haven't a clue if that is true or not. I know Dan has forged it so he should be able to add more info. Thanks for the d-7 specs. It sounds like a bear to work with. What was the hardness of that waki you made? What cladding are you using for the san mai?
 
Last edited:

bubba-san

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info , The final hardness on the wakizashi was around 62 or so a little hard for a sword , I tried getting it softer but, no dice . I normally use whatever I have for cladding , I like folded iron , although Most any thing will work provided its compatible with the core . I recently made a billet of sanmai from 5160, 203e, 15n20, 52100,nickel with a 52100 core . There are 400Layers plus on each side . In other words I clad the core with 2 pieces of 400 layer damascus. Its not thick enough to forge 160. but, it should make some real nice small blades . I might like to get a piece of the cpm 3v . to try it out. I have a piece of D-7 if someone wants a go at it , its free just pay for shipping . I also have been using 9260 silicon steel similar to S-4 s-5 ? This stuff is real nice sword material , and it is very easy to forge and takes a great hamon . Darn near unbreakable unless you lay on anvil and hit with hammer . That will lunch any steel . few pics of huge sanmai billet . thanks for info , also sent pics of 9260 tanto and wakizashi 9260 regards.....Bubba
 

bubba-san

Well-Known Member
I just bought a piece of cpm 3-v from crucible , not a bad price 50$ for a 3 ft piece 1.25 wide x 36" long and 1/4" thick . I want to try some as a core ? any thoughts on that ? I wonder how easy it presses ??
 

J. ROSA

Well-Known Member
I think it is doable. I know of at least one other knifemaker aside from myself looking into using CPM154 with a 3V core. I think I should check back with him to see his progress. I might be interested in that D-7. Do you think that D-7 would be a good choice for a folder? How was the impact toughness? How did it finish? Working with it sounds like a piece of S110V that I have.....
 
Last edited:

Dan Keffeler

Well-Known Member
When I first started using 3V for swords in 2005 I would forge in the tip, stretch the Nakago/tang, and forge in the sori/ curve.
I don’t have a power hammer so forging 3v was very hard compared to forging 52100. It has a smaller forging window and you want to keep it hot.
I never experiment with 3v in sanmai
I herd that Devon Thomas makes damaskis out of 3v and s30v
Pleas post your progress
Dan
 

bubba-san

Well-Known Member
I think it is doable. I know of at least one other knifemaker aside from myself looking into using CPM154 with a 3V core. I think I should check back with him to see his progress. I might be interested in that D-7. Do you think that D-7 would be a good choice for a folder? How was the impact toughness? How did it finish? Working with it sounds like a piece of S110V that I have.....
You are welcome to it ( D-7) everything about it was tough , Impact resistence is very good , I believe there is some silicon in the steel which really improves that quality . I need to do a little testing , to see what will stick to the 3v ? . The D-7 is a pretty big piece . 12" long x 1.5 " wide x 5/16'' thick, weighs about 1 3/4 Lb. cost about 5-6 bucks to ship ? thanks for info, let me know how the cpm/ 3v project goes .The 3v and s30v sounds pretty exciting also . If you want the D-7 email me your address and I will send it to you ...... Bubba
 
Last edited:
Top