Competition chopper geometry?

Daniel Macina

Well-Known Member
The Texas knife makers Guild has a hammer in next month and there will be a cutting competition and I think I will take a competition chopper. Has anybody made one that can give any kind of tips on the geometry? Looks like most of them are flat ground with a convex edge. It looks like in some of my research the part towards the Ricoso is ground more for chopping the tip more for slicing and the middle kind of somewhere between those two geometry‘s. Does that sound about right? Any tips or discussion is appreciated
 

J. Doyle

Dealer - Purveyor
Do you know the actual cutting challenges?

I personally would go flat ground with convex edge.

In very general terms, you want the edge as hard and as thin as you think you can get away with. You probably want some weight in the spine and some height on the blade, within any parameters. Actual testing will be critical for dialing that in.
 

Daniel Macina

Well-Known Member
Do you know the actual cutting challenges?

I personally would go flat ground with convex edge.

In very general terms, you want the edge as hard and as thin as you think you can get away with. You probably want some weight in the spine and some height on the blade, within any parameters. Actual testing will be critical for dialing that in.
Don’t know the exact challenges some would be pretty classic cutting competition stations and some they’re leaving as a bit of a surprise so I’m just trying to do something well rounded. I appreciate the advice!
 

tmr

Well-Known Member
I am pretty sure if you google Knife Sports International you will get the specs........it is like 15 in overall...10 in blade....2 in max width.....must have thong hole........forward hole i think.....lots i have seen are 3/8 thick at the spine with full flat grind.......they like to use horse stall mat rubber for the handle slabs......lots of fun to watch the competitions
 

Andre Grobler

Well-Known Member
i like 1/3" thick, fairly flat convex, i aim for about 1/10" or less thickness about 1/3" to 1/2" behind the edge, this was for the club knives. for my own i go thinner near the edge. final edge 12-15dps for softer steels, 10-12 for harder steels
 

Daniel Macina

Well-Known Member
i like 1/3" thick, fairly flat convex, i aim for about 1/10" or less thickness about 1/3" to 1/2" behind the edge, this was for the club knives. for my own i go thinner near the edge. final edge 12-15dps for softer steels, 10-12 for harder steels
Great info! Thank you!
 

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
I would definitely go 1/4" thick material, Full flat grind, convex edge and I would put my lanyard hole forward not at the back of the tang. Not sure what steel you are going to use but cpm3v is a nice choice and Peter's did an awesome job on the one I used on Knife or Death. I used 3/16" stock which made it an awesome slicer but needed more mass for things like 2x4's and heavy chopping.
 
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