Carved Koa Hunter

J. Doyle

J. Doyle

Dealer - Purveyor
Here's a hunter I finished recently. This is one of my favorite handle profiles. Its carved and subtly contoured. I find it extremely comfortable in several holds and very indexable.

Specs:
Forged from 1075
3 1/2" blade, 7 7/8" overall
Full distal taper
Rounded spine and ricasso edge
Rounded filed thumb grip
Stippled bronze guard
Bronze spacer
Black g-10 spacer with angle cut coining
Carved and sculpted stabilized curly Koa handle.

All comments and discussion welcome.

IMG_20180330_152534_674.jpgIMG_20180330_152534_676.jpgIMG_20180330_152534_677.jpg90330181439g.jpgIMG_20180330_152534_679.jpg
 
John, that is one amazing knife - the wife can't get enough of the stippling around the guard. Seems like you've mentioned before how you do that, but my old mind can't remember. "IF" it's not a trade secret, how do you do the stippling?

Don't let me forget to mention the hamon - that sets the standard for hamons.

Ken H>
 
KenH said:
John, that is one amazing knife - the wife can't get enough of the stippling around the guard. Seems like you've mentioned before how you do that, but my old mind can't remember. "IF" it's not a trade secret, how do you do the stippling?

Don't let me forget to mention the hamon - that sets the standard for hamons.

Ken H>
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Thanks Ken. For the stippling, I first cut two line borders with a three square needle file then a stipple the area between the borders with a 1/64" ball end burr in a pencil die grinder.
 
That is really pretty awesome. The fit and finish is great. Did you make the finial to screw it together? I've been curious about this process of putting together a hidden tang.
 
J. Doyle said:
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Click to expand...

J. Doyle said:
Thanks Ken. For the stippling, I first cut two line borders with a three square needle file then a stipple the area between the borders with a 1/64" ball end burr in a pencil die grinder.
Click to expand...

OK you already told how you do this. You had me scratching my head for a bit before you explanation!! Then I sit and thought about the potential to screw up when doing the stippling and it makes me nervous to think. That close to finish and then stippling and hope it doesn't get away into the area outside the lines!! 1522771079491.png

Anyway the way you put it all together is a another one you hit out of the old ballpark. Two thumbs up John!!
 
J. Doyle said:
Thanks Ken. For the stippling, I first cut two line borders with a three square needle file then a stipple the area between the borders with a 1/64" ball end burr in a pencil die grinder.
Click to expand...
John, I understand you to say each of those tiny dimples are where you touched the brass with a 1/64" ball end burr. WOW!!!! A steady hand and a good eye for sure! With my shaky hand and poor eyes no point in me even thinking about stippling! Just color me IMPRESSED!!
 
Ken, can't you see yourself setting the burr down ever so gently, and the RRRRRRRRR! it runs right across all that work and jumps off the far side, leaving a nasty trench in its wake!

Maybe it's just me...
 
John Wilson said:
Ken, can't you see yourself setting the burr down ever so gently, and the RRRRRRRRR! it runs right across all that work and jumps off the far side, leaving a nasty trench in its wake!

Maybe it's just me...
Click to expand...
LOL!!!

Those little air grinders are buzzing at 50k and above(the spendy ones over 100k rpm) so they're not too grabby...

To me the bigger issue is the artistic feel of how many touch-downs in each area to give it the look you want. It's all feel there....And John D seems to have it wired!
 
I like the air powered ones. Much smaller and easier to hang on to and they turn faster so you have more control. The downside is the noise. Ear protection is a must.
 
Here's the one I bought recently...I like it. It is not as high quality as we had at a company I worked at but does not cost $300+...lol. A good "getcher feet wet" tool and price...lol. 56 thousand rpm....wear ear plugs...or go crazy!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072MWKBS9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The collet that came with it was NOT 1/8...had to bore it on the lathe. There are other models that say 1/8 collet. This one said something like 3/32 to 1/8...I should have known better...it was close to 1/8 but metric. It works well but I'd maybe choose another brand that is advertised at 1/8 collet size only.
 
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Thanks, Ted! Hearing protection would be required any time I use air. My Harbor Freight air compressor sounds like a rock crusher!
 
Interesting use of the air die grinder - I guess that 56K rpm gives better control than a Foredom grinder at 15K rpm? The higher RPM the better control with light cuts? I do NOT consider myself experienced with die grinders - the Foredom does seem to work better than Dremel tool does - for me anyway.

Thanks to all for sharing info. That air die grinder for $30 to $40 is not a bad deal at all, and at 4CFM it wouldn't take a HUGE compressor to provide the required alr.
 
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KenH said:
I guess that 56K rpm gives better control than a Foredom grinder at 15K rpm?
Click to expand...
No comparison...the higher the rpm the less torque effect on your tool...you will still feel pull in the direction it wants to climb...but way more manageable. I also notice angle of attack makes a difference.
 
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