Carbon fiber Ti liner lock in process With few questions....

Been making knives for about 3 years, went liner locks about 1 1/2 ago. Using usaknifemaker template tweaking them a bit...trying different materiel. Really like carbon fiber scales. Using .071" titanium for liners. Biggest trouble i have is the lock on the blade and grinding CPM-s30v...everything else getting good at. I wait till after heat treat to bevel blade.
In your guys and gals opion would be better to grind blade before heat treat leave about .015" of so, chances of warping so afraid of that still learned do's and don'ts.

KNIFE SPECS
.120' CPM-S30 BLADE
.071" TITANIUM LINERS ANODIZED BLUE
.125" 52 LAYER CARBON FIBER SCALES *PRO-TECH COMPANY*
ALL TITANIUM HARDWARE (ANODIZED BLUE)
-----2-56 PAN HEAD TORX, 1-72 FLAT HEAD TORX *MCMASTER CARR*
*STEVE KELLY DESIGN (SKD)* 3/16"x.150"x.098" CLEARANCE HOLE STAND OFFS (ANODIZED BLUE)
.187" 416 STAINLESS STEEL PIVOT PIN HARDENED *ALPHA KNIFE SUPPLIES*
.187" 416 STAINLESS STEEL STOP PIN HARDENED *ALPHA KNIFE SUPPLIES*
6-64 T10 FLAT LOW PROFILE TORX .374" DIA.HEAD (ANODIZED GOLD)<MORE OF A BRASS THAN GOLD *ALPHA KNIFE SUPPLIES*
.187"x.187" BRASS THUMB STUD POLISHED *USA KNIFE MAKERS*
.005"x.375" BRONZE WASHERS (I MADE)
.010"x.375" TEFLON WASHERS *USA KNIFE MAKERS*







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BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
I grind them soft, heat treat and check for warp. I've had to redo a couple when the edge picked up ripple where I ground the edge too thin. This usually happened when the foil puckered up really tightly around the blade during heat treat. There are many good reasons to grind the blade hardened and I probably should but don't.
 
Thanks Mr.Mickley you commenting on my post is worth $1,000,000.00.. I get to the grinding of the just get right down scared, all the work put into it "BOOM" there goes the blade start over. I have down 4 liner lock knives so far with usaknifemaker templates.... there best $25.00 i have ever spent. I have sold all 4 knives for well above over $250.00 each. those 4 knives i used O-1 tool steel so I can heat treat them myself , but with CPM-S30V thats hole other story send them out heat treat when do send out its 3 to 4 weeks getting them back. I got 6 blades out of S30v so far just afraid send them out I have made enough to buy a old Atlas metal lathe, and a Harbor Freight mini mill...next on the list is a Table Top heat treat oven I seen a guy use on YouTube..

I personally like thank for what do on here and the videos you do put out it has made knife making my number 1 thing to do(other than working and my family)...being clean from drugs and alcohol for 18 years i have done many hobbies, rc cars, learn play guitar, etc list goes on ,,,,,,but with knife making I been doing for 3 years in row everyday at least 3 to 4 hours a day...

I will try to do the soft grind leave about .015" of a metal there see how it goes and again thanks for the tips anymore tip much needed
 

J S Machine

Well-Known Member
I grind mine soft. I usually leave about .02" -.03. Like Tracy said, I've had a few warp here and there. A lot of makers grind them hard but I don't do this because it is rough on the belts. I also know a few guys that just knock of some of the meat there.
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
I grind mine soft too, like boss dog, I don't really have a reason I just do. I've had very few problems with warping.
I do find doing file work works better for me if the grinds are already on the blade so I can be sure it's eye appealing, versus grinding after the filework has already been laid down....if that makes any sense.
 
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