Bought A New Mill... Now What Can I Do With It?

MTBob

MTBob

Well-Known Member
I'm a sucker for nifty looking machinery & tools. I found this curious little "mill" on CL at a price I couldn't pass up. Even though I've got a nice Clausing 8520 Knee Mill, I just figured a guy can't have too many mills...(that's what I told my wife)! This thing is manufactured by Vanda Lay Acra in California, and claims to have accuracy of "thousandths of an inch" (what ever that means). If nothing else, it's a good mounting system for holding a Dremel tool.
I'm thinking I might be able to MacGiver this thing into a configuration to accurately grind / cut serrations in a blade edge.
What do you'all think? What's a good knife making application for this little mill?

1650128260561.png
1650128973285.png
 
That's a neat little mill - It surely won't do any hogging of metal. I could see using it to "touch up" something that needed a thou or so off.
 
That thing is cool as hell! I like the idea of using it for serrations, you can probably mod it to work for that. Or you could mod it to accept a Foredom hand piece if you wanted something with more power. I like it, really neat!
 
that’s the Nail Nick mack daddy right there! (straight pulls made with a cutoff wheel)

I have no idea what i would use it for, BUT I WANT ONE!
 
One thing that I have seen Dremel based devices use for is "milling" pockets in handle slabs for mortised tang handles. It is certainly a spiffy looking little piece of gear.
 
Hey, that's some good ideas, much appreciated. I fiddled with the mill this afternoon and I think my next step is to mount a proper vice to the table. The vice that came with the mill is pretty cheezy. I'll mount the small mill table in my big mill to drill holes to get the vice jaws aligned parallel to the table axis.
Question: If I cut serrations, I'm thinking that's got to be done Post-Heat Treating. If that's true, then I'll need to use a carbide milling cutter or possibly an abrasive wheel. But, in either case I run the risk of over heating the serration edge. I suppose I could use my coolant mister to minimize overheating. Any thoughts on the method used to cut or grind the serration groves?
 
MTBob said:
Hey, that's some good ideas, much appreciated. I fiddled with the mill this afternoon and I think my next step is to mount a proper vice to the table. The vice that came with the mill is pretty cheezy. I'll mount the small mill table in my big mill to drill holes to get the vice jaws aligned parallel to the table axis.
Question: If I cut serrations, I'm thinking that's got to be done Post-Heat Treating. If that's true, then I'll need to use a carbide milling cutter or possibly an abrasive wheel. But, in either case I run the risk of over heating the serration edge. I suppose I could use my coolant mister to minimize overheating. Any thoughts on the method used to cut or grind the serration groves?
Click to expand...
I haven’t done serrations, but I would bet that a carbide cutter would get eaten up pretty fast. I would use a rubber sanding drum with a 220 grit drum. Doubt you would need coolant as long as you take it easy. You can look into what Dremels options are for chainsaw sharpening. I know they make a chainsaw kit, not sure what’s in it though.
 
Bruce McLeish said:
Geez, fellers. I just use a jeweler round file. It only takes a minute.
Click to expand...
Bruce, you've done it again, pointing out a simple solution in contrast to my typical over thinking a problem. :)
But, tell me, if you're using a file it would mean you're cutting the serrations before heat treating. So, in order to get the serrations set in the edge correctly, the primary angle would need to be at nearly the final thickness - let's say about .020" or so, depending on the knife. Wouldn't that lead to more blade warpage during heat treating?
 
Dremel mill.jpg

This is version 1.0 of a home made mill setup. I am hoping to have 2.0 done this weekend with an item list that I can post for everyone! Mine works OK now in micarta and g10, but isnt as solid as I want. It made a pretty straight slot, but screws kept loosening and allowing more drift.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top