A new one

[Alden Cole]

Hello guys, sixth knife done, going to my cousin.
1080 steel,
tiger wood,
brass pins,
Wood sheath.
OAL approximately 5 in. Cutting edge approximately 2 in.
Please critique!

 

[Alden Cole]

Come on guys, I know there are a lot of things wrong with it! I need some critique especially on the design. Please?

 

[Ty Adams]

What tools do you have working on knives? The knife looks like a good little utility knife, that will handle small jobs nicely. Rounding the front of the scales instead of having them straight adds to the overall appearance of the knife.

This just totally personal opinion, but file work should be left off your knives until you have very good fit and finish. Again that's just a personal opinion.

 

[Chris Railey]

I actually made one like that a couple of years back for a friend who likes short skinning blades. I called it the fat dog. For a sixth knife I think you are on course with where the rest of us were at that time. Plunge lines and fit/finish need work. Good choice on using 1080. I see you have a choil but your plunge line is in front of the choil. I use the choil as a guide of where to start my grind consistently. I start right in the middle of the choil. Some people will cut their plunge lines in with a chainsaw file a quick google on filed plunge lines should net you plenty on that. The purpose of the choil is so all of the cutting edge can be sharpened on a stone. The pin placement is close but not quite centered. It can be a challenge on drop handles to get the pins in the right place. I use a sharpie and make dots on the tang until it looks right then I drill. Rubbing alcohol will remove the dots until you get it right. Once you have the holes drilled in your tang epoxy on one scale then use the holes in your tang to drill the holes in your scale you just glued on. Then glue on the other scale and use the holes in the opposite scale to drill your holes in that scale. The result will always be perfectly aligned holes for your pins. I really like the idea of the wooden sheath but I think the leather strap takes away from it but I understand you need it for retention. Think on that and maybe a better looking retention device will come to you. Google "making a saya" and study how wooden pins are used for retention in those. Again, you are exactly where I was around knife six and if people had not given me advice I may have given up. Study what others do and KEEP MAKING KNIVES that is the only way to improve. I am going to attach a picture of a knife so you can see what I mean about using the choil

 

[Alden Cole]

Thanks guys! This was the first time I used a 1 x 30 grizzly bench grinder I bought. That and a map torch for HT are the only tools I've bought. I use a couple of files, a hand drill, a sawzall, and a dremel. And 220 sandpaper. I know this doesn't go well for me, but I hate hand sanding, and I also need higher grit sandpaper than 220. Should you wear a respirator when hand sanding? Seriously guys, thanks for the advice. I will use every piece of information. Except the no file work

 

[Chris Railey]

I made many knives on my 1x30 and I still use it in the shop. Like I said we all started somewhere and are in different skill levels. There are sooooo many on this site who are much better/smarter than me but I intend to catch them it just may take a decade or so. Keep studying and making you will improve.