In my opinion, yes. I connect a number of 240v, 20 and 30 amp pieces of equipment to my 50 amp circuit. BUT not at the same time, just one at a time. As long as the connected load(s) does not exceed the breaker & wire sizing for that circuit (in my case 50 amps) then there should be no problem.Can I plug it into a 240/30 drier plug with an adapter?
Well said John, you nailed it.Just to aid anyone with a question about 30amp vs 50amp circuits, because many people get confused about this.
The device that you plug in only cares about two things: Correct Voltage, and that the circuit you're plugging it into can carry its load.
Voltage: In North America your 220 outlet will range from 220 to 240 volts. It's the same thing, just like people refer to 110, 115, or 120... Same thing. In a house, if you have one hot leg and a neutral, it's in the range of 110 - 120v. Two hot legs from different phases gives you what is referred to as 220, 230, 240. It's a range, but it's all the same thing.
Amps: The circuit is rated for how many amps it can safely conduct. The device is rated in how many amps it draws to run. The point being that the circuit does not 'push' amps to the device. It is the device that you plug in that determines how many amps will flow. So long as the circuit you're plugging into is wired to carry AT LEAST as many amps as the device requires to run, you are good to go.
For example, if you plug a 10 amp device into a 100 amp circuit the device will still only draw 10 amps. You will not hurt any device by plugging it into a circuit that is rated for higher amps. The reason that 220/240 volt 30amp and 50amp plugs are different is to keep you from plugging high amp draw devices into low amp circuits, because if the breaker doesn't trip it could cause a fire. (Amps cause heat, and too many amps for the wire will cause it to burn up. The circuit breaker is there to protect the wire in your wall from over-current. It is not to protect your device.)
Great comment. I did not see that the Parkworld device was not UL approved. Looking at the company's website, curiously, other wired-type pig tail converters seem to be UL approved, but not the molded puck style that I purchased. I'm not sure what to make of that.I looked at above device on Amazon. IDK but I could find no reviews and could never find if it was UL approved.
My 50 amp circuit is dedicated & sized for a 50 amp welder load (Miller 251 MIG). As discussed, I see no problem individually connecting lesser loads to the circuit.Interesting about the UL approval. Claiming UL approval for only the wire when it's used in a pigtail the've molded in I don't think is legit. Not at all - not that I think it's not safe, but still not UL approved for the full assembly.
I would prefer to see the 50 amp breaker changed to a 30 amp for the oven and the recept changed. I do suspect the 50 amp breaker was chosen for the welder - perhaps on the same circuit? I've got a 30 amp breaker on my welder, which will trip if I turn the welder up to max of 300 amps. Since I never use more than 150 amp on the welder (1/8" rods max) the 30 amp holds just fine.
With that all said, "assuming" the wire is sufficient size for the 50 amp breaker I don't really see a real problem there. Does the welder use the same recept? OR, is the recept for the oven only?