2 hunter WIP

#1
Today was a good day for working out in the shop. It was snowing off and on, and we are closed at work. So I started working on a couple of hunters.
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I made a template to keep the knives as close to the same as possible. The dental pick gets in nice and close for a good scribe.
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Rough cut cut on the porta band.
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For profiling the 10" contact wheel and a 60 grit belt make short work of profiling. I cut up to the line, not past. The contact wheel leaves a concave edge. I'll take the profile up to a 400 grit finish on the flat platen.
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For the inside radius of the handle a 1/2" small wheel is used. I put a couple of dabs of grease on the bearing to keep the wheel from falling out during belt changes.
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I know we all get the dreaded belt bump while profiling. This an extreme case, but it's still an easy fix.
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I use a half round file at a 45 degree angle. If you try to cut straight acrossed the file bites in and leaves an uneven finish.
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All cleaned up and ready for the small wheel with a A65 gator belt.
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Not perfect but good enough for pre-heat treat.
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While drilling the main pin holes I take the time to knock the burr off the exit side before drilling the next hole. Having the holes straight now will save time later.
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Reducing some weight with a 1-1/4" small wheel. This is where I call it quits for today.
 
#5
Seeing how it's Christmas work on these is coming to a stop. I have decided what handle material to use.
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One will have curly maple with a black and green canvas micarta bolster. The other one will be Koa with a blue liner.
Merry Christmas everyone!
 

Merle

Active Member
#13
Looking great! I like your method for pulling weight out of the full tang handle. Good idea.

I have a very similar shaped template for a DPH that I plan to work on over the holiday. What steel and thickness are you using?

andy
 
#14
Looking great! I like your method for pulling weight out of the full tang handle. Good idea.

I have a very similar shaped template for a DPH that I plan to work on over the holiday. What steel and thickness are you using?

andy
Post pictures as you go, I like seeing other people's work. The steel is 1075 3/16" thick.
 
#15
Not much of an update. I realized that all the 1/8" holes were drilled with an 1/8" bit. That doesn't go well when you're trying to get everything too fit right after heat treat. I reamed the holes and added some 1/16" pin holes. I think that this ones going to have domed pins. It's going too be my first attempt at a domed pin handle.

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Two scribe lines for grinding. I also scribe lines down the spine of the blade. I found out the hard way you can be centered on the edge and not on spine. The blades warp all crazy too one side when the bevels not even.
 
#16
Slowly getting around to working on these.
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Rough ground and thermo-cycling done. I use foil wrap to keep decarb at a minimum.
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After grinding off what little decarb is on the blade, make sure everything is nice and flat with 220 grit sand paper.
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After getting everything flat I wash the blades with hot soapy water to degrease, and get rid of any other contaminants.
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I'm going to try a couple of different clay layouts, hoping for some good hamon action.
 
#18
And we have heat treat success.
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I have no idea how accurate these files are. In my testing if the 65rc file scratches but doesn't bite everything went well.
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I use a piece of aluminum angle for a back gauge on the porta band.
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I cut all of my scales at 3/8" thick. This Koa block was over an inch thick, that won't effect any thing in the final shaping of the handle. The pencil is a prismacolor in metallic silver. This is a must use tool for me in the shop. It doesn't stain wood, and is visible on dark wood as well as light color wood.
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Getting the scales flat with some 60 grit paper. This as far as I'm going today, more updates tomorrow.
 
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