13" curvy wakizashi

Discussion in 'Custom Knife Forum' started by Benr.t, Dec 27, 2016.

  1. Benr.t

    Benr.t Well-Known Member

    Hey all, this is probably my last finished blade of 2016 and I thought I would share it.
    It is a one off Ko-wakizashi. This blade has the most sori I have ever done in one of my large blades, which I think really, really makes the look. The 13" blade is CPM3V of course with my high performance heat treat.
    Between the fullers and nice distal taper starting midway down the blade it is extremely well balanced. The Tsuba and munuki are Anodized Titanium and the seppa is textured copper.
    The Tsuka Ito is properly soaked in marine grade epoxy so it is rock solid, but looks completely natural.
    While I enjoy doing the carbon fiber saya for these, not everyone can pony up for the amount of work that they take, and since this one is up for grabs I made it a very nice leather texture kydex sheath. The sword snaps in securely and could be carried inverted if desired.


    Thanks for looking!!


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    [video=youtube;KDCVwkIjF78]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDCVwkIjF78[/video]
     
  2. BrandantR

    BrandantR Well-Known Member

    Beautiful work, Ben. I love your east-meets-west style. Makes for a very distinct look.
     
  3. LobosStyle Blades

    LobosStyle Blades Well-Known Member

    This is really cool. Very functional design and great craftsmanship.
     
  4. Jeremiah Rostig

    Jeremiah Rostig Well-Known Member

    First I like to say:Like always great work!....I have a little critique, if it is ok to say that.... the false edge hitting the fuller does not look advantageous.
    IMHO it does not look good compared to Your regularly excellent executions. I wonder why not make the fuller or the false edge shorter so they wont hit each other.Your fuller is milled and not cut by hand so it is not that deep so if the false edge joins that it looks just ground open up like not finished or a part of it, just ground away like a fault.
    If the fuller is cut deeper(by hand) and joining the false edge the fuller only would get more pointy but still could have a good fuller appearance.
    Fullers cut by hand are different shape in cross section than milled fullers which have rigid 90 degrees all the way down.... how to deal with that could be the challenge....maybe use a smaller mill head to create some space and more depth.
    Hope You don't mind the honest words it is just a detail, I really like Your work a lot......and of course, taste can not be argued.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017

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