12C27 question

M

Michael Minto

Guest
Hi. I've used Sandvik's 12C27 steel only 3 times, and like the finished product, but have noticed some peculiar behaviour on it's part. When, on 2 occasions, I used PCB powder to coat the blade and protect it from the combination of high heat/oxygen, it was extremely difficult to remove the powder's residue after hardening. Soaking the blade in water did not dissolve the PCB, as it does on all other blades I have used it on. I had to grind it off, and lost one of the blades to over-grinding it too thin. Today, I had a similar experience using foil wrapping, which I had not done with 12C27 - when removing the blade from the foil, I had to literally pull, hard, to peel away the foil from the blade - and it was really stuck on there. Anybody else who uses this steel have similar experience? Thanks, Mike
 
I use 12C27 pretty often, up till now...I can't seem to find it in thin pieces.
Anyway, when heat treating it I sprinkle baby powder on it and rub it all over the entire knife, I do this with CPM154 also.
It keeps the foil from welding to the blade. some folks don't seem to have that problem but after losing two blades a long time ago I pamper them with baby powder and sprits in an extra dash just before sealing it up for the diaper gods and never had an issue since.
If you do this make sure it's TALC and not cornstarch...fragrance doesn't matter, it all burns away and your blade will fall out of the foil with no problem.
 
bladegrinder, thanks so much for the reply. ever have this happen with another steel? i have not. wonder if it is the chemistry of the metal, or temperature (i harden 12C27 at 1975F - what do you?) i like the steel, and will try the talcum powder idea. mike
 
Yes Michael, I've had it happen to CPM-154, that foil was welded on so bad I had to grind it off. it was a total mess. I couldn't figure out what happened, then it happened again, literally pealing it off with pliers and grinding it, talk about frustrating!
I just put baby powder on an any stainless blade from now on right before sealing it in the foil and never had it happen again.
I believe it's the high temps. and time in the oven that does it. also when you first pull the knife out the cooler room temp. makes the foil contract to the blade surface which obviously just compounds the problem.
 
thanks, man...i'm out of 12C27 now, but will be trying it again in the future; i'll try the talcum powder fix and post a reply here.
 
I use quite a bit of 12C27 in 2mm, 2.5mm 3.2mm and soon sandvik's 14C28n in 4mm with no problems to date. I use talcum powder liberally on the blade, ss foil wrap and plate quench between 1 inch alloy plates. Do all grinding after heat treat and really like the steel.
 
I like the 12C27, and even better 14C28N steel, just can't get it anymore. AEB-L seems to be just as good and is readily available at a decent price. From time to time I've had SS foil stick to any SS I've used, but it's most often when I use the lower temp 321 foil rather than the higher temp 309. 321 is usually rated for 1900F to 2,000 F and seems to work pretty good, but I do like 309 better.
 
That's where I was getting it, Admiral. but I was using .100, the thinnest they have now is .157.
I called and talked with them and what I was told is that they would be required to order A LOT
of it for it to be shipped to them and they decided it was cost prohibitive to them.
and THAT is a bummer because I was using a lot of that 12C27 in .100.
 
Back
Top