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The tapering scale just does it for me!

I am planning to build a folder with a pressed thumb stud and I remembered to ream to a size .001-.003 under 1/4" but I don't remember seeing if it mattered whether the stud is press before or after HT. Anyone have a thought on this?

Whats the deadline to submit them?

Thats a good tip Frank, thanks!

Sorry for the late response I was out of country. Yes the bevel around the scale. i can do them easily in micarta and G10 but have a lot of trouble keeping it looking consistent with Ti.

For G10, Micarta and carbon fiber I can run a small shaper table with a roll over bit to quickly soften the edges then sand to finish but I am hoping there is a way to get clean consistent appearance with Ti without a mill and not spend hours sanding.

How do you guys get a consistent edge around the border of the handle scales on Ti? I want the lines on the Ti scales to be crisp and not washed out but I dont know of a time efficient way to do them without a mill.

I am running 3/16ths pivots with pivot bushing and bronze washers. I have not used chain rings yet.

Thank you Mr Robinson. I hope to step up the finishing on the next few. I made a ti clip that matches the pivot and stop pin but need some different screw heads than the ones I have to mount it correctly.

Thanks guys. It was a fun build and I am enjoying using it. I had planed to use some 20cv I had but its not wide enough and I didnt have any liquid nitrogen in the dewar so for a test run the 1095 was quick and easy. I have several more to build and will refine it as I go. The next 5 will have...

I was inspired by a friction folder created by Belgian maker , Lucas Lardinosis, and had to have something similar. The cool thing was I had plenty of scrap in the shop to make the thing. 2.25" blade and 6.25" total length. .138 Ti scales and Aldos 1095. Its a full little folder and I will file...

Justin I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full. I have not made any folders from scratch but have assembled a few, sanded down pivots and standoffs etc.

You can use all of it if the blade, with the thickness of the washers you choose, + .001 equals the distance between the shoulders of the stop pins. Tapping adds strength and removes slop if its tapped square to the frame over just drilling a pilot and screwing into the stand-off.

That has been a real surreal moment Ed getting such a small or thin package in and wondering how the heck i am supposed to work with stuff so small my gorilla sized hands (14 ring)

I am looking to purchase an air compressor finishing G10, blasting blades and Ti folder frames. I have a few blast cabinets in mind but I dont know how much compressor is enough. No need to spend 600 on a compressor if the 300 will meet my needs. What cfm compressor do yall recommend for doing...

Yes to the above and I, like you am working on my fist but I opted to build a liner lock since the same materials are used as in the construction of the frame lock but are easier to cut and cheaper on the pocket book. I made a working model of my folder first then just mic'ed out what I wanted...

I like it and as an avid hunter think the blade shape would work much better skinning game with the belly as is than most that I have seen or used. I also like the contrast of the CF and steel parts. Its close to the perfect practical use folder for my dad or myself.

I built a controler 2 years ago and the one Darrin Sanders runs as well. When I first built it I would run programs but since then now I just manually do it and like doing it that way much better. Generally you can write down exactly and for how long you want the program to run then call the...

Thats very clean and I like it!

Thanks Ed , I understand all of that but I am looking for a shouldered stop with 4-40 threads rather than 2-56. I have 3/16th shouldered stops now but they are all 2-56 which is perfect for the smaller folders I am working on but for the larger tactical folders I want a larger stop with 4-40...