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Ive been going over crucibles data..It seems there are several different ways to "quench" this steel. Air, positive pressure,salt or even interrupted oil...It looks like a austnizing temp of abut 2100° with a 1000° temper is suppose to yield a 63rc...Has anyone been heat treating this with...

Ive been researching cmp 3v a lot lately and have come up with several heat treat reipes..Mainly two..Seems that some like the high aust. temp and high temper of *roughly 975*-1000* and some like a lower aust. temp with cryo and lower tempering of about *400..Id like to hear your thoughts on...

I was wondering if anyone has taken into consideration or noticed any effect of high temp heat treating on kilns? Like 1950*-2000* heat treat recipes, just how hard is it on a kiln?

The body of this one will be 1045 but we will be adding a highr carbon steel cutting bit..The haft will probably be curly ash stained with Aqua Fortis.. First we will start with a 1" square piece of 1045..You can heat treat the poll just like you would a regular hammer head.. We mark the...

Would you suggest a "D" sized bit(.246) or a 15/64" @ (.234) Would that 15/64" be to much for the reamer to handle? Im concerned that the "D" bit may be to big to start with..

I have a couple of questions about etching..I did a search but didnt get the answer I was looking for..I found a 12V AC power supply to darken our mark with after etching with a 12V DC power supply..I dont have a problem getting a good etch with the DC, well one small problem but ill get to that...

This one is already on its way to a new home but am very pleased with it..1086M with a nice hamon, desert ironwood and some of Tracys G10 blaze orange liners..I think they "pop" with this Ironwood..

This first one is 1086M.Forged flats.Wasnt really going for a hamon, just a differential heat treat but got a nice frosty line anyway..Desert ironwood scales.. This one is a old rasp... Just a drop point hunter in 1084..Cocobolo scales.

Ive been looking for a zt 302. If you have one to part with hollar at me..Thanks

Every now and again we do one of these for a re-enactor or a period correct stickler. I think its fun myself. This is how they did it before Mill's, Lathe's and 2" x 72" grinders..When the smith was responsible for everything...When the were truely hand made..No electricity.. *The Materials...

Well let me start off by saying, Im just a blacksmith..We make mostly tools, Axes,Hawks and some knives..Dont really consider myself a bladesmith but can make a decent enough knife..This is one of the tutorials we are gonna post that may help someone.. I may not be the worlds best grinder but I...

Anyone use a big blu hammer? I know Tracy sells them so I thought this may be a good place to ask..How do you like them and what baout that shock mounted handle? Any opinions and thoughts appreciated :biggrin:

A few pieces we have shipped out recently.. A french trade axe with real nice curly maple.. A bearded axe, mild steel body and 1065 bit.. A couple more bearded axes. Mild steel bodys with 1065 bits. A rasp hawk..1095 bit.. A hawk with curly ash..

First is a wrap and weld hawk with a nice piece of curly maple.. This one is based of some historical spike hawks we have found thru research. Welded up from two seperate pieces for the body and a bit of W-1 tool steel. Also a nice piece of curly maple.

Made by wrapping and welding a farriers rasp. This one has an extra chunk of 1095 forge welded in for the bit. Hickory haft with pewter caps. It has filework on the blade spine you just cant see it in these pics. 3" wide cutting edge..

Im gonna make a new fillet knife and am thinking about using 15n20 since I have the right size available. What temper do you suggest to give the blade just a bit of flex. If Im not istaken its either .049 or .065...In fact I think I have both. OR do you think since its already so thin it will...

Heres the deal.We make a lot of knives for locals that may not be as finely finished as others.Folks around here dont care about bling, they just want sharp that stays sharp ;) with a reasonable price tag. There are five knives on this post. Some things have come up and we need to move some...

Heres a beefy one made from a good farriers rasp with Ironwood grips. This ironwood has some real nice dpth to it that dosnt really show in the pics.. Stainless pins and lanyard hole..6" blade 1 3/4" wide..

Well, it was bound to happen. Good runs dont last forever. Havent cracked a blade in a water quench for a good long while.Just did two 1084 blades in water...Guess what happened today?:D:D:D It was a modified bowie,short and wide, 3/16th 1095..Clayed with the usual precautions. Well heat...

Is there any certain style of knife, blade material, handle material etc that auctomaically makes you go :eek::eek::eek: Im a sucker for desert ironwood, gets me every time.. Im also a sucker for a nice bowie and wrought iron furniture on a knife.. What about you??