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This is pocket knife #5 and the first flipper. Titanium scales, stainless liner and S35VN for the blade. Kind of homely looking, but it works.

Has anyone used this steel at a high hardness and care to comment on what it's like? Heat treat info would also be appreciated.

I made a short video of the second liner lock I've made.

I was wondering what belts were recommended to use on a surface grinder.

This is number 2. S35VN blade. Stone washed finish.

Made this regular hunter style fixed blade for a guy in B.C. A new style I'm working on.

I completed my first liner lock today. AEB-L blade, titanium thumb studs, stainless liners and white linen micarta scales. I ground the blade post heat treat to 750 grit and then stonewashed it. I like the ground look, but it's a user so I thought it would be best to stonewash it.

I've recently been bitten with the slip joint bug and made a couple of pocket slips to go with them.

I finally finished it tonight. The walk and talk is off a little bit but I'm still happy with it. CPM 154 and Warwood scales. I used 0.005" phosphor bronze washers I bought at USA Knifemaker instead of milling the liners.

I did a search and couldn't find any info in regards to heat treating S35VN for a back spring (making a slip joint). Does anyone have a recipe, or should I just use CPM 154 for the back spring? If so, what recipe for the CPM 154 without using cryo or LN. Thanks in advance.

I was looking at Crucible's heat treat data for CPM 154 (link) and could not figure out the recipe I needed for a slip joint that I'm going to make. If I want to keep 5 points of hardness difference between the blade and the back spring (to prevent galling) I can easily do it with 1900F and no...

I bought a book on making lockback knives and 2mm stainless steel (1.4310 steel) is recommended. Where could I find this material, or a North American equivalent. Thanks in advance.

I'm planning on making a lockback knife and was wondering what steel I should use for the back bar. I'll be using AEB-L for the blade (61-62Rc) and was going to use the same for the back bar, but can't find a recipe to heat treat/temper it to 49-50Rc. I'm not opposed to using some other type of...

I finished this friction folder today. I'm kind of happy with it but, it's probably my crappiest grind to date. I ground the AEB-L in the annealed state and will not be doing that again. It's got some flex to it and my grind did not stay consistent. A good learning experience. I used all...

I had one of those 'I wonder what it would be like' ideas and tried making a full stainless friction folder. Normally I grind AEB-L after the heat treat, but this time I tried it before. It's going to be a rough looking 'industrial' kind of finish so the blade wasn't taken to a very high polish...

I decided to try to make some linen micarta scales for some folders I'm attempting. I haven't done this before so I watched a bunch of videos and it seems pretty straight forward. I decided to do it with a twist though and am not sure if it will work or not. I cut off a piece of stainless...

I made this one for a buddy of mine who likes to hunt moose. He wanted a slab sided handle with the edges knocked off. It looks pretty plain, but feels pretty good in the hand. Hopefully it works well for him.

This small fixed blade knife is made out of 1/8" AEB-L stainless steel. I did the heat treat/cryo/temper to 62 Rc. It's a high flat grind with bead blast/belt finish. Warwood scales (similar to linen Micarta but made using 'green' material) sanded to 1000 grit with stainless steel pins. It...

I have some S35VN that I'll be grinding (60-61Rc) and I was wondering if anyone had any advice/tips/trick that they would care to share.

I made this one for the knife I've been using in my tests. I've made a few pouch style pocket sheaths for the EDC sized knives that I've made, this is my first one with a belt loop.