Search results

  1. TacticallySharp

    4" Hunter template thoughts

    I'll talk about the steel you are planning to use. While any steel will work, I consider 80 CRV2 better for large knives like choppers. To me it's basically a tougher 5160 like steel. I prefer either 1084 or 1075 for carbon steel hunters.
  2. TacticallySharp

    Piggyback sheath

    I'm the rare one here. Since I started in leathercraft, I enjoy it. Very nicely crafted!
  3. TacticallySharp

    Don't be jealous of me.

    Two of my favorite people! Jealous? Heck no, just wish I was there!
  4. TacticallySharp

    Carbon Fiber Trio

    Nice!
  5. TacticallySharp

    How long you been making knives?

    I started about 14 years ago as a cutler putting handles on other folks blanks. In 2011 I took an ABS Intro to Bladesmithing class, and been forging my own ever since. I forge about 90%, and do about 10% stock removal.
  6. TacticallySharp

    What do you all think of Bolo (The Rolling Knife)?

    I'm having a bit of a problem seeing this as a tool in the spirit of the forum. Looks more like a promotional vide for investors. You might want to look at joining DYI cooking groups. You might better luck with that demographic of users.
  7. TacticallySharp

    Custom Hunter

    Very nice! I too want to see the truck...
  8. TacticallySharp

    Basics

    I would suggest reading volume one for the basics, and Chuck's DVD set for more advanced things. Both have a lot of info. The book has a list of what tools you need for each project. To start you really don't need much.
  9. TacticallySharp

    G0704 Equipment Project: The Mill

    Setting up my mill. The real work of cleaning and tramming it has yet to begin. Had to move the whole shop around to fit it in... Box one of tooling and accessories. I think I have spent on more them than the mill cost me! LOL
  10. TacticallySharp

    Outlet location in shop?

    All mine are above bench height. I left space from the wall behind my bench for cords to fall into. Makes it easier to plug things in.
  11. TacticallySharp

    Helpful knife building websites

    Good morning! After years at this I still use Ed's site, and Kevin Cashen's site for heat treat information. Two of most accurate sites out there. http://www.cashenblades.com/index.html
  12. TacticallySharp

    Material thickness for a B&T blade....

    I've used final thickness of anywhere between .80" to 1/8". Most of the ones I've made have been 1084 or the thinner ones 15N20. I differentially heat treat in my shop. I rarely use stainless as I forge 95% of my blades. The HT is how I achieve my flex.
  13. TacticallySharp

    First timer to the forum, glad to be here! Here's my latest.

    Nicely done! Welcome to the pack!!!
  14. TacticallySharp

    Grinding shoulders on a belt machine.

    Little secret, I grind and forge sitting in a chair too Fred.
  15. TacticallySharp

    Problem with my grinder.

    First I would call Jose and ask him about. Since he made it he probably has a good answer for you, without your having to reinvent the wheel.
  16. TacticallySharp

    Thinking of a new grinder..... but oh, the hurdles

    Ed, look at the Outlaw II from Outlaw Waterjet. Matt has a nice machine that will take your 1.5" tool arms. Mike Stewart of Bark River Knives turned me on to him. He was at Blade this year with his grinder line. All my friends that saw it there rated it very well. I'm looking to get one...
  17. TacticallySharp

    Finishing shop?

    I support insulation and drywall. If you are going to spend time there make it nice and enjoyable to work in too. In the long run it will be worth it. Especially as you find yourself working there more.
  18. TacticallySharp

    What a day...

    GFlex is the best epoxy I've used to date. Well worth the little extra it cost. A lot of my fitting issued just disappeared when I started using it.
Top