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#1 Looking to pick up a couple straight razor blanks - i.e., ground and heat treated, I can do the final honing but won't argue if it's already done. One will be for my son's college graduation gift. Something classy like damascus, or with a hamon, or maybe just plain - function over fashion. I...

Looking to pick up a couple straight razor blanks - i.e., ground and heat treated, I can do the final honing but won't argue if it's already done. One will be for my son's college graduation gift. Something classy like damascus, or with a hamon, or maybe just plain - function over fashion. I...

Neilson has some nice options at very reasonable pricesfor blades crafted by a MS (ok, really, you're stealing them) : http://www.mountainhollow.net/knife-blades.php

An absolute masterpiece.

Looking good. I use sawsall blades for broaches as well, but I grind away the TOP of the blade which gives me a cutting surface the whole length which makes it easy to keep the side of the tang hole straight and even along its length. I have also found that spacers help to accomodate some...

I don't really see us being in disagreement, just a slightly different approach to accomplishing the task at hand (or in hand), and in both posts, I think your thoughts were expressed very elegantly. I'm also extraordinarily jealous of your work every time you post. I keep telling myself that...

All good points from better and more experienced makers than myself, however, I'll offer a couple additional thoughts. Every knife is a compromise. Building it for a specifice use or purpose will limit its abilities in other areas. The customer or end user (sometimes that's the maker) needs to...

'Benefit' is a relative term.. if you're in need of it, and it's available, it's benefical... They were actually put on at the request of my friend for added capabilities, whether breaking glass, or applying alternative methods of persuasion.

Nice work. Another advantage to stitching the belt loop on the back is that it lies faltter and tighter to the belt/body.

That doesn't sound out of line. Don't forget the cost of shipping there and back which you'll save by going local. If you're dealing with that quantity, it's nice not to worry about the consistency. What's your time worth? If the cost of cutting is less than that, you're ahead. Plus, that's 36...

Thanks for the kind words. The handle shape has been evolving for me, the knives in my other recent post have the latest development. It takes awhile to shape and finish it, but I think the comfort and handlimg make it worthwhile. Small world, I llive just a stone's throw from the old Bill's...

Mr Doyle, you are the master of the beauty of understated elegance. I'm not sure if that makes sense, but even your 'users' are jewels. If it's not a trade secret, I'm interested in your handle construction as well.

I'd suggest one of my favorites- D2. It takes a lot of abuse and holds an edge well. It has a higher chromium content but not quite 'stainless', so I think maintenance will be a bit easier but you can get some patina on it if you desire. My favorite HT, and he does a great job witht eh D2, is...

This is one I did last year for our church-school benefit that was raffled off, The blade is D2, differential HT by Lee Oates of Bearclaw and he also donated his time on the file work, stainless guard and cocobolo for the handle. The leather sheath is my crude handiwork. A penny for your thoughts.

Trying to catch up on posting some knives. Here's a couple bowies I finished up recently. Both have blades of D2, differential HT by Lee Oates of Bearclaw, approximately 6" and 8",OD/Black G10, stainless hardware, through-tang construction with glass breakers on the back end of the handles...

That's the lamination line between the V10 core and outer layers

Very nice! Great lines and a very clean execution. How did you maintain the color on the scalloped G10 ? Anytime I sand or grind on G10, micara, etc, it basically turns grey until it's polished out which, it seems to me anyway, pretty much impossible to do with a tectured handle.

I'd check locally with a machine shop. If they don't do their own in-house heat treating, they usually have someone in the area that they give it to.

I would suggest a Japanese saw, but make sure you're using a rip tooth.

I have two Boker Plus Vox Rold knives up for sale. One is brand new in the box-still sealed, the other is pretty much the same except it did spend some time in my pack and I did a few cuts with it here and there-still shaves hair though. Also the plastic belt loop is cracked by one of the slots...