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I'm assuming you've already thought of this... Isn't Timascus patented by Tom Ferry? Not sure about Mokume. I know Chad Nichols makes Ti Mokume without stepping on the patent. I guess you're doing something similar?

I don't know about your anodizing source but I use a battery charger from Harbor Freight. It works great and is pretty cheap. You just have to splice a 9v battery into the leads to prevent the safety fault from kicking in. Easy to do though.

I worked in Tool & Die for years and have a set of the 1/8" I use them now for knife making and have never needed anything else I like to give a couple raps with a small dead blow to make sure the piece is seated correctly and 1/8" seem to be able to take it YMMV

You might also try hitting the blade with a generous amount of coolant Keeping the blade cool and lubed is going to extend it's life

Go to a local steel supplier and ask to look through their drops These are the leftover pieces from when they cut steel to size It's basically waste to them and they're glad to get rid if it. They sell it by the pound or by the "eyeball" They've got all kinds of steel I do this every time...

Just to expand on Ed's comments, when using loctite make sure you don't use the red stuff. You'll never be able to adjust or disassemble the knife because that's meant for permanently locking the threads. You'll probably end up stripping the head or breaking it off before you ever get it...

Oh that's pretty cool. I didn't know you could get them from Steve and he covers the fee. I'll keep that in mind. Looks like you're using his pivots too. He's makes some of the best quality hardware I've found. The knives look great BTW. Really clean and sleek looking

Looks like you're well on your way In the 3rd pic it looks like you're including a LBS (lock bar stabilizer). Keep in mind that Rick Hinderer holds the patent on those but he's super chill about letting people use it. However he does require that makers request permission and I think he charges...

I suggest designing your folder in a CAD program first. Something like draftsight. It's free (for now) and 2D which is all you need. CAD allows you to easily move the pivot, stop pin, lock/tang, etc. locations. It also let's you open and close the knife virtually so you can make sure...

HF has some diamond needle files with a lifetime guarantee I bought some because they were cheap and even if they don't last...lifetime guarantee

Wounded Warrior Project may take them as a donation. It's an excellent charity that helps our military members. I made a knife for a charity auction for the local "chapter" (not sure what else to call it but chapter seems close enough). The company I work for is involved with them and they...

Amazon PB Swiss are outstanding but can be pricey. Wiha and Wera are both very good and a little more budget friendly. I use Wiha and have been very happy with them.

OUTSTANDING! That's a fine example of functional art

Thanks for the encouragement and the compliments. I'm definitely stepping away for a bit then I'll see how I feel after that.

I rarely get shop time now that the weather has broken. I'm lucky to get a few hours once a week because I work 60 - 70 hrs/week. So this weekend I had 3 days off and really wanted to hit knives hard. Things did not go as planned. I spent all my time making and then fixing one mistake after...

I've glued CF to steel with West Systems without any problems. I just rough up the surfaces before glue up. Although I also use corby bolts on my scales.

I don't see any problem at all with having an animal logo as long as your name is also included. For the logo shown I'd separate it from your name for clarity. Check out John Barker's maker mark. It's very well done and features his name prominently. Of course it helps that his name is...

Heck I've got a 5 gallon bucket full of those moments

Hit it with windex to neutralize the electrolyte and lightly sand with whatever the final grit the blade was finished with

I etch and on fixed blades I do it before gluing and pinning the handles. I've tried it after but etching requires some sanding afterwards and if the handle is already on it's almost impossible to avoid "j" hooks at the handle where I start the sandpaper. Obviously on folders it's a nonissue...