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    Sub-zero questions

    Good Lord. Sub zero and cryo are used for very specific reasons. Without getting into the "eta carbide precipitation" one gets from using LN2, and just sticking with WHY sub zero (-100f) or LN2 (-300f) are done, we can look at AEBL and it's martensite finish temp. Go to Bohler Uddelholm and...
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    Recommend a heat treat for 4v

    You can try what he (Nathan) does with 3v. I don't know if he does any pre-quenching, cycling, or other pre-hardening operations, but basically you go straight from quench to cryo (no snap temper), and use the low temperature tempers (avoid the secondary hardening tempers). The secondary...
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    Heat treat question

    Whether you are using a forge to HT, or a programmable kiln, the best way is to ALWAYS have the temp where you want it prior to inserting the knife. Kilns and forges will overshoot the target temp as it settles in on your programmed temp. You don't want your knife exposed to hotter temps than...
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    Planning for D2 blade

    " What is the critical temperature that needs to be reached with cryo treatment?" Well, technically that will depend upon the steel itself. For example, low alloy steels will have near 100% of their martensite conversion done at around 200F (well above room temp). That is why simple steels...
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    Planning for D2 blade

    You will get as many different answers as you do replies for the slurry mix. I use denatured alcohol, instead of acetone or anti freeze, etc. One gallon of denatured alcohol, and about 5 pounds of dry ice. Crush the dry ice in the bag with a hammer, the finer the better, but in all reality...
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    Planning for D2 blade

    Pre heat really is only needed in complicated cross sections, which knives are not. No real need to pre heat. I would do 1850F for 30 minutes, with you SS foil, and plate quench. After the plate quench and once able to handle bare handed (without delay), to reduce the significant amount of...
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    Yeah, we get all of that Scott. Not sure where you're coming from on your post. My comment was simply made because I thought 12 hours was an excessive amount of time to do a sub critical anneal in order to re heat treat the steel without a grain growth problem. But, like I said, DevinT is the...
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    That 12 hours did surprise me, a LOT. I would think 2 (two) would be plenty, but DevinT is the AEBL guru. LOVE the steel. I am surprised at how well it holds an edge, and how easily it is to make it screaming sharp. It behaves very much like a carbon steel in that regard.
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    Grind Before or after Heat Treat?; Lessons Learned

    If you want to try oil quenching higher alloys, D2 and A2 are also oil quenched often, use plates after about 7 seconds in the oil. I've read from a few tech articles that faster quenches in higher alloy steels can reduce retained austenite. I don't think in a major way, like cryo will, but...
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    Ramp speed for AEB-L

    For hardening, PRE HEAT kiln to 1950F. Once kiln is AT temp, insert blade, and begin soak time (20 minutes or so), remove, quench, sub zero or cryo, temper.
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    Hunter with Redwood Burl

    Nice work!
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    Grind Before or after Heat Treat?; Lessons Learned

    I'll be the first to admit that I have NEVER in my life plate quenched. I stick with carbon steels, the highest alloy I will do in my shop (temp limited kiln) is A2, and it gets oil quenched. When I mess with higher alloy tool and stainless steels, they get sent out. But I have used plates to...
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    Grind Before or after Heat Treat?; Lessons Learned

    By experience and file hardness tests. I don't have a RC tester, but I can tell when steel is 62HRC vs 60HRC vs 57HRC. EASILY. I think most can too, who have been doing this for a while, and especially sharpening for a long time. Pretty sure Peter's uses plates and forced air for AEBL, but...
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    Grind Before or after Heat Treat?; Lessons Learned

    Your conclusion is flawed. EVERY single AEB-L knife I have sent to Peter's for heat treating (with the exception of 2), have been ground pre HT. They came back at 62HRC. Yes, the test was performed on the ricasso, square to the diamond penetrator, but was 62HRC throughout the blade.
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    drilling holes in hardened material

    Thanks for the excellent post! "Applying light pressure to save wear on a drill bit is probably the best way to dull a drill bit". I didn't know this early on, but believe it to be true just by personal experience. Good pointer, right there! Also, I have found that a "Carbide-tipped...
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    Some might scratch their head and ask why use 1080+ for a kitchen slicer, and they're right....not the best steel for that application, but.....I was new to the craft and needed a steel that was easy to HT with simple gear, and 1084 wasn't around at the time.
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    It may be they just copied/pasted. I even sent Chuck and email about the recommended aus temps on some of his carbon steels, but probably should reach out directly.
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    There simply is no reason to austenitize that steel any hotter than around the 1525F mark. There isn't enough alloying bonded with that carbon requiring such a high heat to break it free. Now how heavily spheroidized the steel is when you harden will add more need for a higher aus heat, but...
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    Knife and steel testing

    Well said, Mr Caffrey.