Aluminum Bronze for guards?

from national Bronze's website:

"Alloy C954 is the most popular general purpose Aluminum Bronze. It is also commonly referred to as Wearite 411. It is recommended in jobs requiring maximum metal to metal wear resistance. This tough, hard alloy resists wear, abrasion and deformation under high compressive loads and when mating with dissimilar metals. It prolongs part's life, cuts maintenance costs and reduces friction, galling and seizing even under temporary lubrication failure. It is ranked among the strongest and best axid-reducing alloys with good machine and weldability."

is "axid-reducing" a typo?


General internet quote:

"Aluminium Bronze is considerably more abrasive to machine than standard brass or bronze. Tools need to be very sharp. Through coolant drills should be used as there is a tendency for the material to work harden and grab."


Ted's advise: Slow down the RPM...speed up the feed rate....
 
If anyone wants to try some Aluminium Bronze I would be happy to send you a piece . I was using it at one time here and there but got tired of trying to MACHINE IT , DRILL IT or MILL IT . Grinds nice.
 
Freds Edge said:
If anyone wants to try some Aluminium Bronze I would be happy to send you a piece . I was using it at one time here and there but got tired of trying to MACHINE IT , DRILL IT or MILL IT . Grinds nice.
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Lol...yes...it does grind nice.

I kept slowing down RPMs till it cut without work hardening. My mind kept saying it's got a lot of copper and aluminum...should machine like butter....lol...NOT.

I'm using almost the same speeds and feeds that I use on A-2 tool steel...I ended up drilling 1/4 holes at 900 rpm...with flood coolant....and I still don't know about tool life really.... Only that I don't burn up a drill on a single piece...lol. But i am hooked on the look!

Freds Edge may have the best idea lol: "got tired of trying to MACHINE IT , DRILL IT or MILL IT"
 
I chose the aluminim bronze for a couple reasons...cost ( in the size I needed was cheaper) and corrosion resistance. I really don't know what the corrosion resistance will be in the real world. i figured that something being handled a lot would benefit from a good corrosion resistance. Human hand oil? Nasty stuff...lol.

When it arrived I forgot about everything but color...lol.

Freds Edge could probably weigh in on how well the Alum. Bronze held up to handling...
 
Bruce McLeish said:
John , examples please. I don't even know WHAT to look for ! But I sure would like some different materials to experiment with.
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I'm not John, but what I use, and like the best in the bronzes are.....

"Bearing" bronze
Bearing bronze has a lead content of about 6 to 8%. The higher lead content gives it a low-friction property, making it useful in high wear environments, specifically areas that are difficult to access or maintain. As its name suggests, bearing bronze is most often used to make bearings and bushings. (This is likely the most available version of bronze, and usually in the SAE 600 series) Personally, I prefer to buy this variety in larger sized barstock, which for some reason is always less expensive then smaller sizes, and then forge it down to the sizes I desire. The best part is once it's sized via forging, just get it to a red, and quench in water....which anneals it, making it much easier to work then it is prior.

And/Or...

Phosphor bronze, also known as tin bronze, contains copper, up to 11% tin, and up to 0.35% phosphorus. The addition of phosphorus increases the bronze’s wear resistance and stiffness. This alloy is known for being tough and durable, with a low coefficient of friction, and a fine grain. Phosphor bronze is commonly used to make anti-corrosive equipment, electrical components, washers, springs, bellows, and musical instruments. (This is what is widely used for the tiny/thin "bronze" washers we use in building folders, and usually in the SAE 500 series) This variety comes in barstock too, but historically tends to be less available in barstock sizes, and more expensive then the bearing bronze.
 
Bruce McLeish said:
John , examples please. I don't even know WHAT to look for ! But I sure would like some different materials to experiment with.
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Yeah, Ed covered it pretty well. Mcmaster Carr has pretty good selection and descriptions. And if you select a specific product, there is a "product details" button that will show alloy content, hardness and all sorts of info.

I think 936 is an easy machining bearing bronze that comes at 25 Rockwell c hardness. Easy to work. Great color.

Bronze isn't really cheap but a big chunk will do a lot of knives and it ages and patinas so nicely. Much better than brass.
 
I will look at the bar stock that I have I believe there's a stock number on it and when I checked I thought it was aluminum bronze . We used these to make bearing slides on some of our larger presses.
 
Here is a sneak peak. This handle is not the final handle. This handle is hickory which makes it easy to test my construction methods before I blow a 50 year old piece of highly figured Claro Walnut. I still have to make the butt cap to cover the screw...I want to try fluting that too...

I am finally getting excited to be finishing something! The doc says(one month ago) I am still in heart failure but gave me the go ahead for light work or exercise...This is light work! I've been whupped the last two weeks but is has been worth the results.

the fullers helped a lot! Balance point is between the plunge line and front of the guard. (Bowies always feel nose heavy to me...thus the double fullers) I had to loosen thing a bit for epoxy. I may make me a take down just to show folks the assembly but not to sell.(I think Ed's advice was spot on there as I watch family members try to assemble the proto-type. :oops:)

My sheath maker and Gene Kimmi get the first two...I'll give this one to the sheath maker for sheath design and give him another when I send Gene his.
141876427_159810102371746_2130229612977293818_n.jpg142446401_404558827490072_2326451552293807515_n.jpg
 
Smallshop said:
Here is a sneak peak. This handle is not the final handle. This handle is hickory which makes it easy to test my construction methods before I blow a 50 year old piece of highly figured Claro Walnut. I still have to make the butt cap to cover the screw...I want to try fluting that too...

I am finally getting excited to be finishing something! The doc says(one month ago) I am still in heart failure but gave me the go ahead for light work or exercise...This is light work! I've been whupped the last two weeks but is has been worth the results.

the fullers helped a lot! Balance point is between the plunge line and front of the guard. (Bowies always feel nose heavy to me...thus the double fullers) I had to loosen thing a bit for epoxy. I may make me a take down just to show folks the assembly but not to sell.(I think Ed's advice was spot on there as I watch family members try to assemble the proto-type. :oops:)

My sheath maker and Gene Kimmi get the first two...I'll give this one to the sheath maker for sheath design and give him another when I send Gene his.
View attachment 76986View attachment 76987
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That's a nice design! I like.
 
Smallshop said:
My sheath maker and Gene Kimmi get the first two...I'll give this one to the sheath maker for sheath design and give him another when I send Gene his.
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I meant I would swap out the "ugly" handled knife for a nice walnut or Zebra wood handle....not give him two! Lol!
He just needs something to get sheath designs going....

I already had a request for a laydown sheath......sigh. I'm still figuring how to finish the cap....
 
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