Need help on these few ASAP!!

Guindesigns

Guindesigns

Well-Known Member
I'm working one these few and have almost finished but when I polished the handles up now they have the black rouge I use on my wheel stuck in them plus I have the gap next to a pin or two. How can I get the rouge out and what can I use to fill the gaps without having to put the handles back on the belt?
 

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To fill gaps I will take some of the same material and make a small pile of material with a course sandpaper. I'll then mix that with some super glue and put in the gap. Sometimes I have to do it more than once.

Don't know about the black rouge. Hopefully someone else will come along that can help you with that.
 
Looks like you need to start back at 120. Once you've got everything evened out to 120 grit, use a backer to go over your pins until they're flush enough you can't feel them. Repeat with 220 grit. Repeat with 400 grit, and once your scales are all evened out, wipe with WD-40. At that point, decide if you want it shinier. The buffer will cut the softer handle material away from the pin if you are over buffing, exacerbating any dark ring or epoxy gap around the pin.
 
I agree with all of the above.
I will add a couple things since you asked.
Use smaller pins. Smaller pins, smaller clean up.
Way more sanding, way less buffing. If you need to use black buff for any reason you aren’t sanding enough. Black is typically used with a sisal wheel to aggressively shape material, or remove metal. It sucks for a polish on any laminate or phenolic. We don’t use it for any reason in our shop.
For buffing g10, sand to 400 or 600 and look at bobbing compound followed by pink no scratch and then a dry clean buff wheel to clean things up and give it some gloss.
Buff compound is mostly wax and grease with some abrasive thrown in. Use a cleaner that cuts grease and wax. Once it gets stuck in the fibers of the glass mat of g10 though you mostly have to sand it out. Sanding to preferred finish followed by a coat of wax with a clean dry buff is the cleanest method.

Most important, figure out why the pin holes are wallowed out and fix that issue.
 
BossDog said:
I agree with all of the above.
I will add a couple things since you asked.
Use smaller pins. Smaller pins, smaller clean up.
Way more sanding, way less buffing. If you need to use black buff for any reason you aren’t sanding enough. Black is typically used with a sisal wheel to aggressively shape material, or remove metal. It sucks for a polish on any laminate or phenolic. We don’t use it for any reason in our shop.
For buffing g10, sand to 400 or 600 and look at bobbing compound followed by pink no scratch and then a dry clean buff wheel to clean things up and give it some gloss.
Buff compound is mostly wax and grease with some abrasive thrown in. Use a cleaner that cuts grease and wax. Once it gets stuck in the fibers of the glass mat of g10 though you mostly have to sand it out. Sanding to preferred finish followed by a coat of wax with a clean dry buff is the cleanest method.

Most important, figure out why the pin holes are wallowed out and fix that issue.
Click to expand...
The scales slipped while drilling and helicoptered. I should of use the clap I bought and have on my drill press would of costed me like 3 seconds.
 
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You must clamp your scales to the tang and drill thru the holes in the tang, drill your holes under size and use a reamer, you can buy a 1/4" adjustable it will give you a good fit, any smaller than that are all fixed sizes, a drill does not drill a round hole. I never use a grease based compound on any handle material, it does just what has happend to you, I use 3 M heavy dutey boat compound, you can use it on bone horn crowns wood what ever, can be removed dry or wet with a tooth brush, I tape the metal parts off and only buff the handle material, stops the black frome the metal from contaminating you handle material.
 
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