Bringing Damascus pattern back.

Mark Barone

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
After sanding, what is the best way to bring Damascus back. I have some test pieces I want to try? I have ferric chloride, apple cider vinegar on hand. I tried soaking in straight FC but it seem to darken the whole piece. I left it in for about 3 -5 minutes. I can't seem to find find any videos on this.
 
Is the concept to make it as shiny as I can get the steel prior to etching so there is a good contrast between the patterns?
Everything seems to darken and dull?
 
I'm still not getting the shiny part shiny. So There's is not much contrast. Could I be leaving it in too long? I only did ten minutes and using 3 parts distilled water to 1 part acid.
 
It was off of Amazon. I forgot which company. I figure i should at least bring it back to what the original bar still looks like. Since I learned that there are different grades, this piece I am only using to make some jewelry pieces. Here is a picture , notice how the reflection of the light doesn't shoot across the piece. I took it up to 600 grit. Maybe that's not enough. I wouldn't use this piece on a blade. One of the test piece I made actually split between layers while sanding. Or from going from the hot piece into the cold water. Unless that happens sometimes even with quality D steel .IMG_3546.jpg
 
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Quenching from hot into water could definitely cause cracks.

600 grit finish should be fine.

Are you sanding lightly with super high grit paper after etching? You want to brighten up the tops of the bright layers for better contrast.

Is that little guitar pick sample hardened and tempered?

I would only buy Damascus billets from quality people/companies with solid reputations in the knife industry.

Trying to skimp or save money on pattern welded steel is disappointment waiting to bite you in the butt.

Ed Caffrey sells quality Damascus and he's a known quality source.
 
J. Doyle said:
Quenching from hot into water could definitely cause cracks.

600 grit finish should be fine.

Are you sanding lightly with super high grit paper after etching? You want to brighten up the tops of the bright layers for better contrast.

Is that little guitar pick sample hardened and tempered?

I would only buy Damascus billets from quality people/companies with solid reputations in the knife industry.

Trying to skimp or save money on pattern welded steel is disappointment waiting to bite you in the butt.

Ed Caffrey sells quality Damascus and he's a known quality source.
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THanks John. No I didn't think it was necessary to harden the piece, would that help? I did lightly sand it with 1500 hundred after it. I think the acid, although really diluted is eating away the shiny layers too much. I even tried short quick dips. Thanks agin for everybody's input. I'll keep trying different methods and try to get my hands on some good steel.
 
Hardened and tempered martensite will etch much differently and more sharply with better contrast than unhardened steel.
 
J. Doyle said:
Hardened and tempered martensite will etch much differently and more sharply with better contrast than unhardened steel.
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Ok I'll try that also. thanks for the tip. I won't make a D steel knife until I perfect this method. That would frustrate me to make a knife and keep ruining it with the etching process. At least with jewelry, I am not wasting the steel. I will also order steel from places this forums recommendations and that should help also. So many different variables to perfect. But that's what keeps it interesting.
 
I asked about where it came from because there's a lot Pakistani "damascus" being sold under all sorts of names. A common joke is calling it car bumper damascus because of the mystery steel its made from. Hardened damascus definitely shows the pattern better. If this is some of that mystery steel, it may not even harden all that much. Also, sanding the higher "shiny" layers with a flat sanding bar or stick will keep you from disturbing the lower dark layers. For jewelry pieces at an affordable price, check out Alabama Damascus. They often sell the drops or scrap after water jetting blanks and you can get a lot of small pieces really cheap that way.
 
For a good contrast I'd suggest doing a long etch, at least till you can feel your finger nail drag on it, then do like John says and go over it with some fine paper lightly, like 600 or finer, using oil...and lightly. I use a small flat block of walnut for the backer. that will keep any polishing at the very top
 
bladegrinder said:
For a good contrast I'd suggest doing a long etch, at least till you can feel your finger nail drag on it, then do like John says and go over it with some fine paper lightly, like 600 or finer, using oil...and lightly. I use a small flat block of walnut for the backer. that will keep any polishing at the very top
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The long etch helped, I did about 25 minutes in a 3:1. The liquid was also a little cold in the basement. I did actually feel the different levels with my finger nail. I then used 1000 grit to shine up the top level. I appreciate everybody helping me also understand the physics and process. I may actually make a damascus knife with confidence now.IMG_3559.jpg
 
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