hand stitching vs industrial sewing machine?

So you drill it twice?
yes...but it is easy. I have held the sheath by hand before and just ran it up the drill. I don't do that now because I want to have a method I can teach to others that is safe....so I am setting it on the the stitch area of the back of the knife. construction insulation makes fast easy fixtures for drilling....blue or pink...lol.
 
For those of you who are using the drill press to make the stitching holes try a 2mm drill bit, BUT grind the top end to a point and reverse the bit in the press. This punches a clean hole through the leather and leaves the surface clean with no tears. I have been doing it this way for some time and would ever use a drill bit the 'right ' way round again for leather work.
My process is to sew on the belt loop then glue the welt to one side using a good contact glue (F2 here in NZ) then after glueing the other face of the welt and remaining edge and the glue is dry, I fold the sheath to about half its final shape and run a thin stream of water down which facilitates the folding and glueing down of the second side. Then I clean up the edge on a worn 60 grit belt, edge bevel and run the groover round, mark the hole spacings and take it to the drill press. Having wetted the fold, the sheath will now lay perfectly flat on the drill press block and the holes can be punched. I do turn the sheath over and run the point of the sharpened drill stem through from the back as that makes the hand stitching from that side a little easier.
I also will use a shallow pan and lay the edge in water so it wets the stitching row as this allows me to pull the thread tight into the rear of the leather a bit more that it would if the leather was dry and hard.
As soon as the stitching is done I will get my fngers into the sheath and round out the folded edge and set it asside for a couple of days to dry before I hot wax and form to the knife
 
Von Gruff, silly question- but do you turn on the drill press or do you simply use it to push the sharp bit through the hole like an awl?
 
I will definitely do it your way from now on. I've been wondering how to avoid getting the chewed up holes on the back side.
 
I have the drill press running John as it burnishes the hole a little. Sewing is a breeze doing it this way.
Are you running in reverse? I use .062 (1/16) in forward...You're using .078 (2mm) which probably is not making a hole that big by how you're using it? I'm gonna try your method...as soon as I know i'm understanding it correctly...lol

Oh! You're holding on the flutes and using the backside as an awl...just sharpening the end to a point?

running the drillpress probably burnishes the hole a bit?
 
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I use a 2 flute carbide end mill running as fast as I can...my exit wound looks as good as the entry...It is the drill point that tears the leather...an endmill punches clean.
 
I like the idea of using the rod-end of the drill. I spend half the time trying to flick the wood out of the flutes. (I drill through the leather into a wood backing block.)
 
I like the idea of using the rod-end of the drill. I spend half the time trying to flick the wood out of the flutes. (I drill through the leather into a wood backing block.)
I'm gonna play with it too...I will probably stick with drilling as I hope to kick that over to the cnc eventually for perfect spacing and time reduction.

Clamping the wood to the table and moving the sheath removes the wood chips...still have the leather "chips"...the endmill minimizes that a LOT though....
 
Are you running in reverse? I use .062 (1/16) in forward...You're using .078 (2mm) which probably is not making a hole that big by how you're using it? I'm gonna try your method...as soon as I know i'm understanding it correctly...lol

Oh! You're holding on the flutes and using the backside as an awl...just sharpening the end to a point?

running the drillpress probably burnishes the hole a bit?

Yes holding the drill bit by the flutes and run the drill press normally. I have a block of wood that is fixed on the drill press stand so the 'bit' is entering the same hole each time so no wood chips or leather chips for that matter either.
 
When hand stitching, I will cut a groove in for the threads, use a stitch spacer for even holes and then a 1/16 sharpened "needle" in the drill press to punch the holes. It burnishes the holes a bit and they don't close up so fast to get your (saddle stitch) needles and thread through. The trick, if there is any really, is to pay more attention to where the needle exits the leather so the back side is straight and neat as the front.
 
On cutting the groove, I have found the small "flexcut" tools for wood to work exceptionally well on leather. And they sharpen easy on a buffing wheel...

I just ordered a 30 degree "V" carving tool...I think it may work even better than the wider v carve and the narrow round chisel that I have been using.

Anyone else tried these on leather?
 
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