Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
I have been using Blade Bond. Before that Acraglass but I think for full tangs I like the consistency of blade bond better just a bit thicker.
What epoxy
- Thread starter Gliden07
- Start date
opaul
Well-Known Member
I'm not disagreeing with you and I'm not recommending either. I'm quoting the g-flex manufactures instructions that comes with the product.
"Sand or grit- blast the surface to expose bright metal.
Clean the area with acetone or lacquer thinner using white paper towels .
Allow the surface to dry completely.
Abrade through wet epoxy - etc."
"Sand or grit- blast the surface to expose bright metal.
Clean the area with acetone or lacquer thinner using white paper towels .
Allow the surface to dry completely.
Abrade through wet epoxy - etc."
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Over the years I've been asked to be a "tester" for many of the epoxies directed at Knifemakers. We all have differing expectations of the epoxy we use, and like or dislike various characteristics based on the way we use those epoxies. I've come to understand that one very important aspect that most don't consider is longevity of the cured product. The sad truth is that the majority of 2-part epoxies that are commercially sold have a "hold life". This is something that is engineered into the product(s) by the chemists who design them. "Hold Life" means that a given epoxy, once mixed and cured, will start physically breaking down at a given point in time. Sound strange? I thought so too. One chemist that I spoke with put it like this.... "Ed, my job and livelihood depends on selling epoxy, I'm never going to design an epoxy that lasst forever."
The way I arrived at using what I use is..... early in my career, I used a popular "2 tube" type epoxy, and about 6 years later, I started having knives returned to me with various issues concerning the "glue"/handles. In total I repaired/replaced about a dozen knife handles. That's what prompted me to start researching, and how I found that the "hold life" of any epoxy I use is so important, and was a major factor in choosing the "glue" that I use. My advice to anyone who intends to be around the knife world for the long term.... pay particular attention to the "shelf life", and the "hold life" when you choose which epoxy you use. Of course, as I mentioned previously, there will be other characteristics that are desirable or undesirable for each individual.... but just ensure you choose the epoxy you do for the "right" reasons.
The way I arrived at using what I use is..... early in my career, I used a popular "2 tube" type epoxy, and about 6 years later, I started having knives returned to me with various issues concerning the "glue"/handles. In total I repaired/replaced about a dozen knife handles. That's what prompted me to start researching, and how I found that the "hold life" of any epoxy I use is so important, and was a major factor in choosing the "glue" that I use. My advice to anyone who intends to be around the knife world for the long term.... pay particular attention to the "shelf life", and the "hold life" when you choose which epoxy you use. Of course, as I mentioned previously, there will be other characteristics that are desirable or undesirable for each individual.... but just ensure you choose the epoxy you do for the "right" reasons.
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Smallshop
KNIFE MAKER
C'mon Ed...you don't get to toss a bomb like that and get off scott free...(as in not telling us some of your favorites or what you currently use) Lol.
Very good info to know! Planned obsolescence is the bane of our modern world....sigh.
Perhaps you have already shared in another thread? I think I remember the engineers quote on another thread...?
Very good info to know! Planned obsolescence is the bane of our modern world....sigh.
Perhaps you have already shared in another thread? I think I remember the engineers quote on another thread...?
I would avoid using the twin tube consumer type two part epoxy. This especially includes Devcon. There are some industrial grade twin tube adhesives that are very good so not everything in a twin tube is bad.
In doing a lot of testing, acetone film left after cleaning degrades the bond. Your mileage may vary but that is how my testing came out. I use rubbing alcohol. It's cheap and everywhere.
Surface prep will make or break the best adhesives. The bigger the grit you use to scratch up the surface for a better purchase, the better. I can take the "worst" adhesive (what ever that is) and prep it to outperform the best adhesive (what ever that is) with a bad surface prep.
Adhesive manufactures test by using sandblasted coupons to get their numbers.
In doing a lot of testing, acetone film left after cleaning degrades the bond. Your mileage may vary but that is how my testing came out. I use rubbing alcohol. It's cheap and everywhere.
Surface prep will make or break the best adhesives. The bigger the grit you use to scratch up the surface for a better purchase, the better. I can take the "worst" adhesive (what ever that is) and prep it to outperform the best adhesive (what ever that is) with a bad surface prep.
Adhesive manufactures test by using sandblasted coupons to get their numbers.
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
G-flex or the like seems expensive when you buy it. But consider that the 32oz bottle (16oz of resin + 16oz hardener) for $50 will last a hobby maker a year or longer. In the long run, it's money ahead of buying anything a few ounces at a time. It's like buying steel or belts or sandpaper sheets. It hurts when you make the big order, but it hurts way more to pay shipping several times on less quantity.
Anyhoo, like everyone else I used whatever I could get at Lowe's on my first couple of knives. Pot life matters! Very few things are as nerve wracking as getting a scale that doesn't want to go on just right, or realizing you forgot a spacer, or realizing you didn't mix enough epoxy...right about the time it starts to cure on you. Trying to pull it all apart is a big, sloppy mess and usually a total loss on all your handle material. It is so nice to have several hours to work without sweating imminent disaster.
Anyhoo, like everyone else I used whatever I could get at Lowe's on my first couple of knives. Pot life matters! Very few things are as nerve wracking as getting a scale that doesn't want to go on just right, or realizing you forgot a spacer, or realizing you didn't mix enough epoxy...right about the time it starts to cure on you. Trying to pull it all apart is a big, sloppy mess and usually a total loss on all your handle material. It is so nice to have several hours to work without sweating imminent disaster.
Ty Adams
KNIFE MAKER
John,
You should shop on Amazon under boat repair. I purchased 32 oz. of G-flex for $35 shipped. If I remember correctly the boat repair shop was in your neck of the woods.
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Ty. Those are the kinds of deals I always learn about right after I buy a year's supply of something!
On a side note, for epoxy tints and the like- Jamestown Distributors is a fantastic go-to for all things boat, which includes marine epoxy. I learned that you can get a bottle of epoxy tint for about fifteen bucks right after I bought it for $40 on Amazon.
I know that the Blade Bond epoxy rep was on this forum some time ago and seemed to be a really decent guy. Has anyone tried it yet?
On a side note, for epoxy tints and the like- Jamestown Distributors is a fantastic go-to for all things boat, which includes marine epoxy. I learned that you can get a bottle of epoxy tint for about fifteen bucks right after I bought it for $40 on Amazon.
I know that the Blade Bond epoxy rep was on this forum some time ago and seemed to be a really decent guy. Has anyone tried it yet?
scott.livesey
Dealer - Purveyor
I stay away from acetone because of the fumes and it's explosive nature. 70% rubbing alcohol works fine for me. I dimple the blade and inside of scales with deburring tool on dremel clone. don't clamp assembly too hard, you will force out much of the adhesive.