Tutorial on Kit Modification

Steven Janik

SUPERMOD & AWARDS BOSS
This is gonna fall into two categories so it may get switched to Custom Modification Forum.

I was recently given a "BULLSHARK" framelock folder kit by Jonathon of Custom Knife Kits so I thought I would see what could be done with it. There have been questions about kits before on this forum and by no means am I trying to push this over as a custom built knife, BUT if you are new to folders or just starting out and have limited equiptment and funds this is a great way to start . I used this one simply as a platform for this tutorial and will keep it in my pack or give it to charity or some kid. I'm open to suggestions but will not adopt any of you. (unless of course you have good gardening skills, a cnc mill, a great place to hunt or just a lot of disposable income and will buy shoes and purses for my wife.)

I was amazed at the quality of this kit for the money, under $30.00. I love liner locks and full scales so I did a full on conversion as follows.......

This is the kit as shipped with radiused edge frames and textured G10 half scales.
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The detent ball is already in place when shipped.
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This shows the radiused frame edges which I remove later on to accept full scales.
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This is the blade as shipped with thumb stud attached and already pocket drilled for detent ball.
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These are the half scales and clip as supplied. I did not use these.
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Kit Modification part #2

Stabilized Buckeye Burl block for scales.
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Splitting block on band saw.
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Scales sanded and wet to show color.
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Liners assembled with back spacers and radii sanded off.
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Here I'm bending a ruler along the centers of the existing pivot hole and threaded holes for half scales. I will locate, drill and tap a new hole at the front of the liner to accept the full length scales.
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Kit Modification #3

Drilling for the new hole at the front of the liner and for the clip. This is an extra drill bit that is not in my index so it is marked with tape to identify size and number. Pretty smart, huh. These liners are hardened so if you are going to drill and tap any new holes you can nock the hardness out with a regular propane torch. I just held it in vise grips and heated to a dull red glow just on the end to be drilled and let it cool slowly. It was still a little tuff but TiN bit cut through it. Tap very slowly and break your chips every quarter turn.
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Locating the new pocket clip. I like to have it up high for a low profile carry.
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Tapping a hole the old fashioned way.
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Here I slide the pivot through and set the blade on the squeeze a piece of paper between the blade and liner and trace both sides.
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I'm going to make a full back spine out of bone colored Corian and this will be my template.
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Kit Modification Part #4

This is the back spine pattern I traced on both sides of paper.
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I have transferred the pattern onto Corian which I thickness sanded down to the same height as the original back spacers.
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Smoothing out the inside edge of the new back spine.
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Clamping the spine to the liner and locating the back spacer holes.
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I am using the original back spacers because they are threaded. Remember this was a framelock and has countersunk holes from each side through what are going to be the liners for this new liner lock.
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Kit Modification Part #5

New solid spine attached to liner.
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View of spine in place from the bottom.
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The spine touches the stop pin and is tightened up before sanding.
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I've bandsawed the Corian close to the liners and bring it down to size on side sander.
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First look at sanded spine and liners. Now removing the radius at the frame/liners starts to make more sense.
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Kit Modification Part #6

I'm gonna layout some basic "filework" on liners. As you will see this is not done with files this time but is a very basic way to get some texture on the back of the knife. I wouldn't sell this to anyone as "Hand Filed".
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Next I bend a steel rule along the spine and layout a simple pattern.
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I use a 1/2" diameter drum on my oscillating spindle sander to make the detents in the liners.
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A quick look at the pattern. You have to make sure that your detents don't line up with back spacer screws or you will grind into them and see them forever.
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Putting some non slip thumb grooves in lock bar with dremel and carbide cutter. I torch colored the lock bar with a small butane torch, a few seconds turns a nice wheat color.
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Kit Modification Part #7

I lay the liners out on the scales and get ready to drill some holes.
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The holes are laid out, drilled through and countered bored for the recessed button head screws.
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The scales are attached and ready to be sanded down close to the liners. I always use my little 9" badsaw first to get everything close before sanding.
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This shows the spine sanded and now you can see how the little bit of added texture on the sanded detents helps the overall look.
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And then BLAMMO!!!! Just when you think your cooking along you notice a little high spot in the backside of one of the liners. Heck, that's easy, I'll just tough it on the side sander and it flies out of your hand at 9000mph and breaks in half. But have no fear, Super Glue is here. There was nothing missing so I glued it up and continued on.
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Kit Modification Part #8

A little freehand sanding and it's starting to look like something.
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Final sanding with an orbital palm sander and a quick buff with white compound.
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Finished clip side.
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View of alignment from the bottom.
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Finished look along the spine. It all came together nicely.
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All in all the total time was about 6 hours and that included the screaming and jumping up and down when I broke the scale.

For a way to get started into folders, this kit can't be beat. The quality is exceptional, the lockup is sweet and there is no wobble and I left it loose enough to flick open with little effort.

Please feel free to ask any questions.
Have fun and be safe.

Regards,
Steve
 

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Beautiful work. One question if I may. You used a propane torch to knock some of the hardness out of it to allow for an easier re-tap. Did you have to re-heat treat or does it not matter that you reduced the hardenss a little?

I have an EDC knife that I love but I would rather it carry tip up on the left but there are no factory provisions to mount the clip that way. I have wanted to tap new holes to allow for this but was scared that the liner was heat treated so I did not want to screw anything up trying.
 
heat treat

jdkno,
I had no metallurgical info on these liners so I was kind of shooting blindly by torching the liners. But it also wasn't a critical spot so I wasn't too worried about softening up the ends. I did, however torch the lockbar and quench it in water to keep good tension and return at lock up.
The geometry of this liner, backspacer and pivot location combination seems to be self supporting. The only torque in the blade, which is almost non-existant, is due to the nylon washers which I will replace.

Is you are looking to drill and tap a clip into an existing liner, This will work but you have to be able and willing to clean up the finish due to discoloration. This may lead to refitting scales, etc. Which is a whole new can of worms.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Steve
 
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Hey Steve, great tutorial. You made it look easy. I am going to have to try a kit to get started on folders because I don't know squat about them. Denny
 
That was a great tutorial, Steve. After seeing this I think I will try a kit before I get into making folders just to see what I'm getting in to.
Thanks!!

Larry
 
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