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Thread: Grinder/Belt Question

  1. #1

    Grinder/Belt Question

    Why would my blade be rattling and banging all over the platen face when I'm using finer grit belts? Smooth as silk with 60 and mostly 120g.....It is not a chattering or skipping, but more "knocking" and only when the blade is on the platen. Brand new belts, so I don't think that is the issue. I recently added a face to the platen (courtesy of Ed Caffrey) with some 2" 5160 stock and glued on some of the cloth backed graphite with 3M adhesive spray until I can get a glass face. I'm using an old Wilton, and it runs FAST. (Still working on acquiring motor/VFD upgrade.

    Last edited by Jellis11; 04-03-2017 at 12:29 PM.

  2. #2
    I think what your feeling is the tape that joins the belt together at the seam. Finer belts have thinner abrasives than coarse belts which cushion where the joint is. Some of the higher end belts run a bit smoother but on a hard platen even glass you will probably still feel the belt joint.

    Hope this was helpful

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    1,382
    splice bump, just as Boss70 says. You'll also notice that it eats little zigzag dips in your finish that you have to grind out again. I have no idea how guys run 220grit or higher j-weight belts on a flat platen for grinding bevels. I switch to Trizact Gator belts at 220 for this very reason.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Boss70 View Post
    I think what your feeling is the tape that joins the belt together at the seam. Finer belts have thinner abrasives than coarse belts which cushion where the joint is. Some of the higher end belts run a bit smoother but on a hard platen even glass you will probably still feel the belt joint.
    Thanks! If that's the case, it makes sense!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John Wilson View Post
    splice bump, just as Boss70 says. You'll also notice that it eats little zigzag dips in your finish that you have to grind out again. I have no idea how guys run 220grit or higher j-weight belts on a flat platen for grinding bevels. I switch to Trizact Gator belts at 220 for this very reason.
    Great information John! I actually tried to order a few last week, but unfortunately out of stock

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    1,382
    TruGrit will have them

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Columbia, SC, United States
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by John Wilson View Post
    splice bump, just as Boss70 says. You'll also notice that it eats little zigzag dips in your finish that you have to grind out again. I have no idea how guys run 220grit or higher j-weight belts on a flat platen for grinding bevels. I switch to Trizact Gator belts at 220 for this very reason.
    Once you are able to slow the belt down to 40%, adjust the tracking so the j weight belt hangs over the side of the platen. Start in the middle of the blade and gently push towards the bevel. I finally tried this last night and it put in equal bevels!

    The less weight (thinner) of the belt, the slower you need to go to avoid the belt splice bump. Just like speed bumps.

    Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Yeah, I need to make that modification a priority! I've sourced a brand new ABB VFD mini for 130.00, just need to find a decent motor now.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Great Falls, Montana, USA
    Posts
    2,820
    Everyone has nailed it on the belt joint issue.

    Personally, I would think twice about the VFD you mentioned. It's not a matter of IF that particular variety will give you grief, it's a matter of WHEN. It's simply not suitable for a grinder application. I know it's pricey by comparison, but it you want something that is going to last and be trouble free, go with a KBAC (model 24D, 27D, or 29D depending on motor HP) and a 3 phase TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor. That is assuming that you have 220V power available.

    I can't count the number of times I've fielded phone calls and emails from folks having difficulty with those type of VFDs..... they are just not built/intended for use in a "dirty" environment such as grinding. The "open" design means that steel dust can readily enter the units, often causing them to "burn out". They are also NOT intended for the frequent/routine speed changes we generally use in a grinder application. Whatever route you decide to go, both the VFD and the motor MUST be totally enclosed/dust proof. Otherwise it's just a matter of time before they go out in a loud crack, or a puff of smoke.

    www.caffreyknives.net
    Caffreyknives@Gmail.com

    "Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
    Visit me at Table 2Q at the Blade Show!

  10. #10
    Good point on the NEMA 4X enclosure Ed...although I was fully aware of the need for the TEFC motor, I hadn't even considered the enclosure for the drive. Its too bad the ABB isn't highly regarded for grinders...one of our reps is an ABB dist. so I can get them at cost.

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