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Looks like TiConnector stuff? If so, it's pricey, but it's so well worth it! Steve is one of my best pals, and it took him nearly two years to get me to try his hardware.....but once I did, I realized just how much grief I was putting myself through with the "import" stuff. With the cheaper import folder parts, I always had to struggle with each knife, tweaking this or that to make everything work right. When I used/use Steve's hardware, for a lack of a better way to say it, things just "fall together", each and every time. Now I call him my "pusher" friend.....he's got me hooked!
On the size of pins and thread pitches of screws.....
The mindset that is rampant these days about what is necessary on a knife, much less a folding knife, is really mind blowing. The vast majority of people are COMPLETELY UNEDUCATED on the subject....and I don't mean that as an insult...they're not stupid....just uneducated about the facts.
They take someone's word who took someone else's word who took another person's word who just made assumptions about what is 'needed' or necessary and it just spiraled out of control.
If some of the makers would actually do REAL in shop testing, first hand, they would be AMAZED at how strong some of these small pins and screws are. Do you know how extremely difficult it is to break a 3/32" stop pin? Or break an 1/8" pivot pin? Or how much force it actually requires to pull a 2-56 screw out of a few tiny threads of contact? Out of WOOD no less!!?? I DO......because I tested all that stuff for myself. I was surprised and I knew all that stuff would be fine before I tested.
I'll safely go out on a limb and say that ANYTHING you do with a folder that would cause an 1/8" pivot to fail, break a 3/32" stop pin, or pull a 2-56 screw out of it's threads would definitely be considered major abuse and would likely damage the blade and/or lock LONG before any of the other stuff happened.
But I'll qualify those remarks with this: I try to give the uneducated masses what they want. It's hard to sell a folder without some of that heavy duty hardware. But I keep it within reason. I have my limits on stuff I simply won't do.
"They take someone's word who took someone else's word who took another person's word who just made assumptions about what is 'needed' or necessary and it just spiraled out of control."
VERY well said. I call this the "parrot syndrome" uncontested information being parroted until it is common "truth"...had a young guy explain about a "blood groove" recently.....But this problem is in every trade and probably endemic to the human race....
This is one reason I try to test EVERYTHING...and when I find truthful experts in a field I am interested in I "stick close"...you have much less "testing" of knowledge around these type of folk....
Just my $.02.
On mechanical overkill:
Look at the forces being generated in a combustion engine....then look at the relatively tiny size of the fasteners holding that continuous explosion together....they do not "overkill"...they properly engineer
Smallshop (AKA Ted Hauser)
God puts the iron in the ground and the highlights in the wood....it's His stuff, we just get to work with it....make it nice.
Being new I'm trying different stuff and before I even opened the little bags I could tell that this is quality hardware. I could immediately see the finish is better than anything else I have.
When I took the pivots out and fumbled them around a bit, it was obvious that these were of a higher standard.
Not that the other stuff is bad necessarily but these are definitely better. More expensive but as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.
I have had knives fail on me BUT that was long before I started carrying decent quality knives. Mostly cheap (sub $25) garbage. But even then the pivot wasn't the point of failure.
It was usually because of crummy materials or engineering. The screws would strip out of the handle or the blade would break or the lock would slide around on the lock face and close unexpectedly. The kind of problems you get when you use the absolute bottom of the barrel materials and nonexistent quality control.
I don't think anybody here is making $25 knives.
As a collector I've seen the trend of bigger and chunkyer knives. I even bought one. I quickly decided it was not for me. I want a pocket knife not a pocket filler.
New question, phosphor bronze washers. Why are there so many thickness options? I guess I can't see why you would prefer a 0.020" gap when you could have a 0.005" gap. Am I missing something here?
.005 is a pretty small gap too. Everything better be exactly right or the blade will rub somewhere. The blade would need to be PERFECTLY centered and the pivot tension exactly right.
.010" is a pretty nice dimension for washers IMO. It's what I use most often.
Rember too, unless you're making a framelock, you need to think about how much of your detent ball is going to stick out of your liner, which means you need to think about what kind of action the detent will have, which means you need to think about your washer thickness, which means you need to think about how much clearance you'll need for your lockbar to not mash against your scales when the blade is closed, which will throw off your blade center, which could bring you back to full circle at the begging of my comment.
Messing with one TINY detail on a folder could change, and at least makes you think about, 10 other things.
The thinner your washers are, the more you'll have to relieve the backside of your lockbar AND/OR mess with the depth of your detent ball in order to allow proper clearance.........unless it's a framelock.
Thanks John, it's coming back to me now. I made one liner lock when I first started, my 4th knife actually. I remember know discovering the lock bar hit the bolsters and I had to go back and put a relief under there. Amazing, I'd forgotten all about that. I'm working on a framelock design now, so that's what I had on my brain. Not really an issue so much with this one. Dumb question looking back now!