Smaller drop point hunter WIP

redmech

Well-Known Member
Well I've finished more than 6 and less than 12 knives. I'm still wet behind the ears for sure when it comes to knife making. I thought I would share my first build along.

I had a talented knifemaker that recommend me the bubble jig. I can't say enough about how well this tool has improved my grinds.

I'll tell you about what I have to work with. My grinder is a Grizzly 2 x 72, I have a 9x12x3 granite block, set of 1-2-3 blocks, 6" grizzly height gauge( money well spent), several squares, scribe, tabletop drill press, drill press vice (money well spent), bubble jig (money well spent), an assortment of files, and for belts, I've been using blaze 36, 60, 80, and 120, and some jflex belts for contours and handle work. All of this is in my basement being lit by one 100 watt lightbulb in the tin reflector that's mounted on a spring clamp. I need more light, but have just been moving this one around and it sort of works for now. My grizzly I welded a removable tool rest that bolts on under the flat platen and is angle adjustable. It's a lot "better" than the one that came with it. It is still a long ways away from being a great grinder. At this point it still has more potential than I have knife making skills.

I have a long piece of 1/8"x 1" x48" piece of 1095. I figured I'd practice my grinds on a small classic drop point hunter. This blade is a tad bit over 7" long overall.

Here is a pic of pattern scribbled out i created.


Here is my blank I cut out with a hacksaw, and profiled with a blaze 36 grit belt, a Dremel for the finger choil, and drilled holes for Loveless style hardware. I used a chainsaw file and my drill press vice to make the small half sphere where the edge stops at the plunge line. I clamped the blank to my 1-2-3 block vertical, used my square to get it close to perpendicular to my granite surface plate, then used my height gauge to mark my plunge line, then also used it to mark where my 1/4" thick brass finger guard will go. I also traced this pattern onto paper before started grinding the edge, in case I liked the completed knife, and want to make another in the future.


On this thin 1/8" blade I started with 60 grit, and stepped up to 80, and then 120 when I got to close for comfort to my desired grind lines I marked. I'm pretty well pleased with these grind lines. They are not as well as I'd like them to be, but still something for a newb to improve on.


Now I need to heat treat this. I have a knife maker about 2 1/2 hours away, that I've used his kiln in the past, I've also hardened a couple smaller 1095 blades with my oxygen/acetylene torch and ATF. It's not the way I want to do it, but poor folks have poor ways. I think I'll acquire an electric heat treat oven in the next couple months one way or another. So this WIP may take a while. Also am waiting for my 1/4" thick brass to get here, I just ordered it.

I'm all ears and appreciate any criticisms or comments.

Thanks for looking.
 
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Looking great so far, man. You nailed the hardest part... the grind. Looking forward to seeing this one finished.
 
Making a pattern /drawing before you start, very smart, things go better when you know where you're going.
Just think how much better they will get with More light.
Very envious of your grinding ability.
I like knives with guards.
 
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. I ended up spending the day at my knife maker buddies shop today. He hardened two other blades for me. This blade, I need to cut out my notch where the guard will go on at. Since I don't have my brass to fit the notch, I didn't heat treat this one. I'd like to get the fit of it as perfect as I can do. So while hating to, I didn't start cutting my notch, until I have the brass stock in hand.
 
I arrived home from work and had received some supplies. I had ordered a 3/8" thick guard with a 1/8" slot cut into it from a knife maker supplier. I thought I would grind it down to 1/4" thick and install. My blade is right at .125" thick, the slotted guard is .131. So I'll have to make one, I'd like to get as tight of fit as possible. I also received a piece of 1/4" x2"x12" piece of brass.

I clamped it between my two 1-2-3 blocks, squared it up. Marked my 3/4" line for where I'll cut it off. Marked my center line where to drill (.375), and marked .313 and .437 for my lines I need to file to. Marked both sides of the brass for filing purposes. My file lines are .0005" shy of .125" on each side. I tried center punching my drill line every 1/8" of an inch, then drilled with a 7/64 drill bit to remove majority of material.





Here I have clamped my 1-2-3 block down to my drill press table with a piece of 3/8 all thread to have sort of a guide to help keep my drilling in line.





Drilling,


Here are my results.


This is not as straight as I had hoped for. I hoped my 7/64 (.109") drill bit would be small enough to not get to close to my file lines. That gives me only .016 that I have for error. That may not be enough ( I maybe should have went to a 3/32 drill bit). I would of started filing, but I just found out tonight that my thinnest Nicholson file is still .127 thick. That my friend is to thick to file a .125 thick groove. So now I need to grind down one of my new Nicholson files, or find thinner ones. Figure that out later this week, time to turn my light off.

I also ordered a #2/0 tapered reamer so I can peen my guard on well. Going to use 1/8" brass pins. It will be here in a few days.
 
I don't feel so lonely, one step forward 2 back, then wait.:2:
Good pics and attention to detail, hang in there.
 
I really wasn't pleased with my first guard attempt. I think I used to large of a bit for the drill press I was using. So I cut off the first try with my hacksaw, squared the end of the bar, and marked it again.



This go around, I used a smaller center punch and a bit different method of trying to hit dead center.



The hole closest to the edge, I used a dull bit, after not drilling the best, I found a new 3/32" bit, and the rest of the holes cleaned up great. Collectively all of the holes were a bit closer to one side than he other. Once I get a thin file, I believe I might have a chance at hand fitting a perfect .125" wide groove. I'll see how great that goes.



I hope I can get it to go my way. After last nights attempt not going as well as I wished, I feel better about this go around.
 
Hello, Well I am sure by now your realizing how time consuming it is doing your guards that way, I still do it that way ! Milling machine would be awesome to have. I did notice one thing that may help keep your holes lined up better, Looks like your using jobber length drill bits?
Try some screw machine bits also known as shorty's. They drill more accurate, less flex. I think I use a thin warding file to get my slot started and go thicker when I can. A file guide helps a bunch to get to your line. Hang in there, I am bald on top because of this stuff, LOL!
Clint
 
I really appreciate the support and any help. I remember when I took machine tool in vo-tech back in the 90's we would use the short stubby center drills. I think it would help to get the hole started. I will also look into those shorty drills Sampson is talking about. With this just being my hobby, I'm on no time crunch. I'd really like each blade to be as good as I can make it. I enjoy building stuff, mechanical stuff, and sharp stuff. This hobby fits me.
 
Nice WIP. Having a layout drawing is very helpful as you have realized by now.

An X/Y vise makes drilling a straight line of holes much easier. The human eye is a wonder but it does have its drawbacks. They can be purchased for 75 to 90 dollars for the imports; which work fine.

Thanks for sharing, Fred
 
Fred, I have seen those, and I wondered, how well an end mill would work with that type of vise. I would guess in a inexpensive table top drill press, it would wear components out quickly, and may have some chatter. Drill presses are not designed for the side to side load of trying to turn it into a mill.

Like you recommended would work great just to keep my holes good and straight.

Thanks for the tip, going to have to keep an eye out for one at least till I buy a mill someday.
 
Fred, I have seen those, and I wondered, how well an end mill would work with that type of vise. I would guess in a inexpensive table top drill press, it would wear components out quickly, and may have some chatter. Drill presses are not designed for the side to side load of trying to turn it into a mill.

Like you recommended would work great just to keep my holes good and straight.

Thanks for the tip, going to have to keep an eye out for one at least till I buy a mill someday.


They aren't made for use in milling, but for hole alignment they work well. Drill the hole at each end of the intended slot and fill in the others; it helps.
Good looking blade, by the way.
 
Used a cutoff wheel in the Dremel and removed some of the material I don't want.



To get this far, I used a thin piece of metal and strips of 80 grit paper, finally ground down one of my files to around .080". Lots of dipping in the water, and more grinding on the file.

Keep checking to make sure I'm staying square.



I was trying to figure out wether or not to make a go/no go gauge, then thought I already made one. Here in this pic I'm using the top part of my ground blade in different parts of my guard to see how close to .125" I'm getting.



I finally stopped here, I think tomorrow I'll make a file guide. I have some 1" wide 3/16" thick 1095. I'll take some, cut it out, drill, tap it, and harden it and leave it hardened.



Here is my ground down file, and all my gold, I mean brass filings.



I assume at this point you guys with mills are getting sick of how long it takes someone like me to make a simple guard. When I left my slot was anywhere between .101 and .109". Haven't messed this up "yet". I hope it continues to move forward.
 
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