First Knife WIP

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Erdbeereis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 21, 2013

• #1

I just started my first knife today! It's turning out much better than I thought, hopefully my beginner's luck keeps coming.

Starting hacksawing the blade out from the bar stock.

Now I smoothed it out with my 1x30 sander, a half-round file, and a little Dremel work.

It's 1084 from Aldo with around a 3.5" blade and 4-4.5" handle (I haven't measured it yet).

I just have one question, how much pressure should I use when I start the grind? I'm starting with a new 60 grit Norton Blaze belt.

Any constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.

 

murphda2

Super Moderator and KD Blade Show Boss

• Jul 21, 2013

• #2

Start with light pressure to get a feel for what you are doing and add pressure as needed. DO NOT get in a hurry. Attempting to use too much pressure and speed is how you'll end up grinding you fingers and knuckles as much as the blade. Take your time and be safe.

 

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Erdbeereis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2013

• #3

Okay. I'm going to drill the handle holes today. If I understand correctly, if I were to use 1/8 pins for the handle, I would drill the tang holes with something like 3/16 to allow extra room? And when I would do the handle scale pins I would drill the holes with something like a #30 bit?

I'll post some pics of the grind soon.

 

Keith Willis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2013

• #4

Looking good,can't wait to see pics along the process

God bless

 

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Erdbeereis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 23, 2013

• #5

UPDATE:

I drilled 1/4" holes and I'm planning on 3/16" pins for the handle.

I accidentally touched the handle with a trizact so it got a little shiny. That won't cause any trouble with the handle right?

I feel like I did a nice lean convex for my first ever grind. I use a progression of:

Blaze 60

Blaze 120

Trizact A60

Trizact A45

Trizact A30

I really like the finish I got.

I was surprised at how well I got the distal taper. The tip isn't too thin pre-HT right?

Edge thickness.

Does this look like a good first grind. Not too thin?

Any comments are appreciated.

 

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GHEzell

Well-Known Member

• Jul 24, 2013

• #6

Does this look like a good first grind. Not too thin?

Click to expand...

Just right I say. Remember that you'll take it down thinner after heat-treating.

I like the design!

 

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Doug Lester

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2013

• #7

Being that you have already drilled out your pin holes in the tang file this away for future reference. Even if you go just 1/64" over the nominal size of the pin you are going to get a noticeable gap between the pin stock and the side of the pin hole. Use a metric or number bit that is a couple of thousandths larger than the pin size to come closer. What I've started doing to get even a closer fit is I go around the hole with a carbide bit a couple of times just enough that the pin stock slips in with a slight contact. You can do the same thing with the handle material too.

Doug

 

rhinoknives

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2013

• #8

Well it looks alot better than my first knife. lol.
I think you are fine on the thickness for heat treat. I am fairly sure that a #30 bit is the one to use but I haven't used 1/8th pin in awhile and I am at home not at the shop. Look around on a few of the supply house websites, a few have a chart for this.

You are doing great and I am looking forward to the rest of your WIP on your very first baby!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com

 

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Erdbeereis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 30, 2013

• #9

I started a new one in the last few days.

My 1x30 broke so I haven't done the grind yet, in the meantime I've started on my first kitchen knife. I'll try to get a pic in the next few days.

One question, I'm not sure if the handles are completely straight, will this affect the ability to attach the handles? If so, how can I straighten them? During HT?

 

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GHEzell

Well-Known Member

• Jul 30, 2013

• #10

Erdbeereis said:

One question, I'm not sure if the handles are completely straight, will this affect the ability to attach the handles? If so, how can I straighten them? During HT?

Click to expand...

Yes, this will cause problems. I suggest, since the steel is annealed and quite soft, use a vice and hand pressure to gently correct the bend as much as possible by eye, then glue (spray adhesive works well) sandpaper to a truly flat surface (glass sheet is a good bet). Coat the tang using a sharpy marker so you can see what is happening, and sand it flat.

 

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Erdbeereis

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2013

• #11

I think I straightened the handles well now.

Here's a pic of the kitchen knife I started.

My sander is supposed to come on Friday so I'll be able to do the grinds then.

 

Last edited: Aug 1, 2013

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Erdbeereis

Well-Known Member

• Aug 7, 2013

• #12

Here's a rather large update...

I did the grinds on both knives now. It's definitely getting easier the more times I do it.

Tip geometry.

Edge thickness.

Here's the other knife.

Tip.

Thanks for looking!

 

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GHEzell

Well-Known Member

• Aug 7, 2013

• #13

Edge thickness.

Click to expand...

One word of advice, finish the edges to at least 220 grit and smooth out the sharp corners before heat-treating, this will help reduce the chance of bad things happening in the quench....
And drill the handle holes first, too.

Good looking grinds...