Step by Step Guide to finishing Burl & Figured Wood Handles

This is a quick and easy guide to finishing burl and other figured woods for knife handles. This method works well with both light and dark colored woods. For this demonstration I used maple burl (hardwood) and redwood burl (softwood).

I am not saying this is the best or only way to finish burl. It's just a quick and easy way with results that will rival some of the longer more drawn out processes.

The first two photos show a couple blocks of some scrap material I am using for this guide. The first shows the blocks dry and the second with the blocks misted with water. You will see a big difference that you can compare to the photos of the finished pieces at the end of this guide.

Dry Photo unfinished blocks


Wet Photo unfinished blocks


The first step after you have shaped your handles is a thorough sanding. Working through the grits up to 400 grit is good enough for most woods. The next photo shows the blocks sanded to 400 grit.

400 grit photo


After the wood has been sanded to 400 grit it is time to get it ready to be oiled. Using your air compressor and an air nozzle blow off any dust from sanding.

We mix our own oil (1/3 linseed, 1/3 paint thinner, 1/3 varnish) but you could just purchase a can of danish oil for similar results. I use a brush and apply a very liberal coat of oil to the wood. After it sits for about 10 or 15 minutes I apply a second coat. Depending on whether I am in a hurry or not I let it sit for about an hour and then wipe it down with an old t-shirt.

Next with the compressor and air nozzle I blow out any excess oil that can accumulate in checks, voids and open grain. This step is important, otherwise that excess will bleed out resulting in an uneven finish.

Next photo shows the blocks after they have been oiled.

Oiled blocks photo


The normal way to do an oil finish is to build up successive coats for a good finish. That can take days. This is where I steer away for the old school way of a hand rubbed oil finish.

Some times when you oil the wood you will see some sanding scratches you did not notice before. Normally you would have to re-sand the wood and then re-oil the wood. As long as the scratches are not deep, the next steps will correct minor blemishes.

Without waiting for the oil to dry fully I use a top coat of lacquer. It is up to you whether to let the wood dry overnight or not. When I make boxes I just wipe off any excess oil and go to the lacquer step. I use Rudd brand Aerosol with a satin finish.

Lacquer can photo

Before you use the lacquer a couple tips.
#1 Spray the lacquer in a warm area. If the can feels cold from being stored in an unheated area, allow it to warm up to room temperature before using. Otherwise the finish will look like orange peel.
#2 Spray the lacquer in a dry area. If you do it outdoors when it is cold or rainy the lacquer will blush giving it a milky appearance.

With that out of the way. Make sure you shake the can thoroughly and spray the wood with a light coat of lacquer. By placing the wood somewhere that has a light source behind the wood you can see the reflection on the wood to make sure you are getting an even coat.

Very Important. Only spray a light coat. After a few minutes you will see that the reflection on the surface dulls meaning that coat is dry. Repeat spraying a light coat 3 or 4 times.

This shows the blocks sprayed with lacquer.

1st lacquer coats photo


Next step is after these initial coats have dried (should be less than 15 minutes as long as you are spraying light coats) is to rub down the wood with steel wool. If you run your hand over the wood you will feel slight imperfections. The steel wool is to smooth this out.

Using extrafine steel wool (0000) rub down the wood using a circular motion. You are only smoothing out the surface while slightly abrading the surface of the lacquer. This helps the following coats of lacquer to adhere better.

This photo shows the wood after it has been steel wooled.

Steel wool photo


After you have rubbed down the wood use your compressor to blow away any residue from the steel wool.

Going back to the lacquer spray a couple more coats then rub down again with the steel wool. Repeat this until the finish is good and even and you like how it looks. After your last coat, rub down one last time lightly.

This photo shows after last coat.

Last coat photo


Finally to finish the whole process use some furniture paste wax or polish and hand buff with an old t-shirt.

Last photo finished blocks


It is hard to see the differences in these photos but it will be really obvious when you see how the wood progresses in person.
This process works well with both natural and stabilized woods.

One last hint. Machine buffing can dull down the figure in a lot of woods.

Thanks for a great tutorial. Question: on average, how many coats of lacquer do you use?

Mark,

I'm just curious if laquer is a good finish for a knife handle ?
How will it wear over time and will it eventually crack/peel etc.

I'm no expert here but I've heard it said before not too use laquer for knife handles. Just wondering if that was the persons personal preference or if they have a valid reason for concern.

I'm getting started yet again on a blade to use with my "test burl" so I am interested in getting a durable lasting finish that won't need refinishing in a short period of time.

Your display pieces do look great.

Thanks alot. -Josh

Denton Eller said:

Thanks for a great tutorial. Question: on average, how many coats of lacquer do you use?

Click to expand...

I usually do 3 coats then steel wool and repeat 3 or 4 times so probably about a dozen or more light coats.

Josh Dabney said:

Mark,

I'm just curious if laquer is a good finish for a knife handle ?
How will it wear over time and will it eventually crack/peel etc.

I'm no expert here but I've heard it said before not too use laquer for knife handles. Just wondering if that was the persons personal preference or if they have a valid reason for concern.

I'm getting started yet again on a blade to use with my "test burl" so I am interested in getting a durable lasting finish that won't need refinishing in a short period of time.

Your display pieces do look great.

Thanks alot. -Josh

Click to expand...

I would not use lacquer by itself for knife handles even though it is done with some of the Japanese knives. With this way of finishing the main finish is the oil which penetrates the wood and the lacquer is used to even out and brighten the finish as well as give a harder topcoat. The lacquer and oil together holds up for a long time. Waxing the wood gives additional protection just like it does with a pair of shoes.