EDC Bush Wharnie BUILDaLONG

Shane Wink

Well-Known Member
In the name of enthusiasm to be out making knives in the shop I would like to share a little bit of joy. I am not a master or expert so take any advice with that in mind. The fact is that the wharncliffe is my favorite utility design and one I use more than any other for most cutting task around the house and when on duty. Now dont get me wrong there is not a single design that can do everything great but finding a design to fit your needs and one you have knowledge of how to use that design so that you can preform most of your task well is a good thing indeed!

For me the only short coming I find with the blade has been when trying to skin small game. The straight edge just has not been that easy to use and I find most of the time I am poking hole all in the hide. That has been my experience thus far with small game and may not be yours. I also find that I miss that a bit of belly to rock the blade on when cutting veggies and slicing venison. Using just the tip of the Wharncliffe scares up the cutting board real quick so it needs to be a little more user friendly in that respect.

So whats the point of making knives if you dont try to build a blade to fit your needs? Not reinventing the wheel nor will I even most likely be making something original. After all with so many makers that have lived I doubt there is much that has not been made at some point, however with that said I wanted an EDC that would also serve me in the woods as well. What I came up with is best described as a modified wharncliffe Loveless EDC.

Specs:
7/64 01
8" OL 3.5" blade 1 3/16ths wide
Ghost Jade G10 scales

I drew out the shape several times till I had what I was looking for. Once scribed out I cut it out with the bandsaw
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Flattened the blade, ground the bevels and edge down to .015, slightly rounded the spine above the blade and hand sanded the entire blade to 220.
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Drilled the handle and throng holes, counter sunk them, filed the tiny notch at the blade and ricasso and another notch on request by a buddy on top of the spine for lifting his tea kettle off the fire. He saw the notch on a knife in the BackWoodsman Magazine and wanted to try it out. After I placed on on his other bush blade he has asked for them on all his bush blades.
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I have run out of time and will do the heat treat Monday then the scales. Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoy the build.
 
That is looking good. It will be interesting to see it finished. Be careful cutting the G10. I cut some on a band saw with a regular wood working blade and not only did it tear the teeth off the blade it locked it up and burned out the motor. You need a bimetal blade to cut that stuff with.

Doug
 
Thanks Doug, I should have mentioned it was a metal cutting bandsaw Although I do use the wood cutting bandsaw with a dull blade to cut the G10 from the plate. I was Given a 12"by12" by 1/2" thick plate of the Ghost Jade and have yet to use any but this will be as good as any to try it out on. I wish I had some toxic green G10 in 1/16th as a liner :)

I use a lot of Garrolite 11 as I-beams when building takedown longbow risers and agree use a Bi-metal blade, a respirator and a fan to blow the dust away if you cant vaccum it up as it saws.
 
I do apologize as I did say I would get the blade heat treated today but I got to go into the station for 48hrs starting Christmas Day so my wife requested/demanded I spend the today with her. Of course this was after I snuck off into the shop this morning and according to her, woke her up with my noise! I presented a beautiful piece of CPM 3v too her but she mumbled something in wifenese and walked out. Maybe you will enjoy it more :)

I like 3v for my personal knives and have been using it for the past few months. I did not have a Bush Wharnie in 3v so I had to rectify that while grinding out a few more of them in 01. Not too much difference in grinding the two for those that have not tried 3v, however I do take 3v to 600g and to .015 before ht due to its toughness afterwards. I am a performance driven person and currently it cuts longer and resist chipping better than any of the other steels I use. It does cost more but it does more in the areas I want it too than the others so the extra cost is worth it to me. I would also add I am set up to do a proper HT for 3v which is another added cost if your not, however Jerry Hosson said he sold all his ht equipment and has Paul Bos do all his and the cryo.

Anyway here is the 3v Bush Wharnie for myself to have evaluated alongside the 01 twin above.

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