hidden half tang handle for paring knife

hi, this is a my paring knife WIP expanded a little. I am not all that sure of names, but I think this style of handle would be called a "Rabbeted Half Tang." Always wear safety glasses or goggles when using power saws, drill press, and router. Hearing protection is a must with the router.
my paring knife is ready for a handle. the blade has been covered with a layer of blue painter's tape, then a layer of duct tape.
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first step is selecting the wood
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for this knife I am going to use Koa. the wood is thick enough that can use it as shown. it makes the cutting and fitting steps easier and safer.
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the rough handle will be about 5" long, so that is measured, marked and cut.
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this piece will then go to the router where I will cut a rabbet to fit the blade. First, unplug the router, a carbide bit at 25000 rpm will not slow down when it hits flesh and bone. I am using a 1/2" straight cut bit. I have adjusted the height of the blade, set the fence for depth of cut, then set a stop for length of cut.
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the router leaves a small rounded area, so wood in the vise, then clean up that spot with a hand chisel.
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then I test fit the blade before cutting the wood to finished width.
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Next step is ripping the wood to about 3/8". the routered piece will be the left side of the handle. the wood on the handle will be bookmatched.
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time for pin holes. the holes in the tang are 5/32" bit installed in drill press. blade, handle and bit are aligned and clamped. the clamp will also prevent the assembly from "Windmilling" or spinning on the drill bit if it is caught.
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the first hole is drilled and pin is put in place. drill second hole, pin, then drill third hole. fit is checked. opposite side of handle is placed under the first, drill first hole, pin, drill, pin, drill pin.
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handle is removed from drill press, all pins are tapped in and fit is checked. everything is tight so time to glue. I am using a 5 minute clear epoxy. the pins are started on the rabbet side, apply epoxy, fit blade to pins, apply epoxy and fit other side of handle. pins are tapped thru.
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excess epoxy is wiped off. I put plastic wrap on the blade so clamps don't stick
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handle is clamped and left to dry. I left the assembly clamped for about 10 hours(the amount of time I am away at the office) now it is ready to finish.
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once I finish posting this, time to get the knife and head for basement to finish and shape handle. I hope this has been helpful. all comments welcome.
scott
the old sailor

I look forward to seeing the finished product. Koa is a nice wood as well.

first time I have done a tutorial. was it easy to follow?

hi,
knife cured overnight. now is time to shape and sand.
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kinda messy. wiped off excess epoxy, maybe I clamped too tight?
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I use my 3x21 sander to start cleanup and shape. Dust mask is for the wood, steel and epoxy dust. I sanded the pins flush then sanded off all excess glue. I rounded the end and tapered the front. rounded off the edges. I used a 60grit belt. I wiped the blade down with rubbing alcohol to remove all the dust and stuff. the alcohol also raises the grain. sanded on 4x36 with 180grit. hand sand with 180 to remove any sanding marks.

hi,
knife is done and finished with water based polyurethane. The finish was designed for floors, so it has all the extra ingredients for wear resistance. I really like the 90 minutes between coats.
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thanks for looking,
scott