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Thread: WIP...a new "Flipper"

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    aiea, hi
    Posts
    209
    Hey wait a minute, no sound on my copy:haha:.

    Great tutorial, Craig

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Alvarado MN
    Posts
    127
    Thanks for the great WIP and informative instuction ED. After playing gost during the knife chat and "hearing" you use the term floating pin, I was goint to drop a line and ask what you ment but now after reading this I won't need to bother you.

    Jim P.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Great Falls, Montana, USA
    Posts
    2,820

    Laying out and cutting the lock

    OK, let's move along with setting up and cutting out the lock. This step requires a little thought on the knifemakers part. The lock bar must be wide enough to provide enough spring tension, but no so wide as to be stiff. Secondly you must consider the length of the lockbar in relationship to the knife your making. As a general rule, my lock bars are always at least 2 1/2" long, and most of the time closer to 3". The longer the lock bar, the less bend you have to put into it, and the less likely it is that the lock bar will bind against the inside of the handle scales if you get a bit too much bend in it.

    I use a small straight edge, measure the length that suits the particular size folder, then draw a line with a fine black magic marker.


    I have already ground a 7 1/2 degree bevel on the back of the blade, which is the angle I use on all of my folders.



    I have a specific disc grinder set up in the shop, who's only purpose is putting this angle on the lock area of folders. I grind to no finer than 220 on this cut, then install the blade on the liner and using the 7 1/2 degree angle as a guide, I use a very fine scribe and scribe that line onto the liner.


    Next, I drill a 1/8" hold through the liner at the back end of what will be the lock bar....this helps reduce the force of the lock bar, and prevents any fatigue fractures from occurring later down the road. Using my milling machine and a high speed cut-off disc, I cut the long axis of the lock.....





    Many times I cannot make a complete cut on the milling machine, and in those instances, I will complete the cut with a die grinder, with the same type of cut-off disc.

    The front cut, or what will be the locking face of the liner gets cut on the bandsaw, with a fine tooth blade. In this case its an 18 tpi blade. I cut this portion so that I LEAVE the scribe line, and will lightly grind it down later to get the lock-up I desire.



    Now comes the tedious job of fitting the lock. There's no magic formula...its grind and fit, grind and fit...and hope you don't over do it!

    www.caffreyknives.net
    Caffreyknives@Gmail.com

    "Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
    Visit me at Table 2Q at the Blade Show!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Posts
    515
    When you are figuring the lock bar out do you do any thinking about the detent ball position as well?
    Alistair Phillips
    Spare Time Knifemaker
    http://knives.mutantdiscovery.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Great Falls, Montana, USA
    Posts
    2,820
    I don't worry about the detent until everything else is done...I'll explain that in the next post.

    www.caffreyknives.net
    Caffreyknives@Gmail.com

    "Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
    Visit me at Table 2Q at the Blade Show!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Great Falls, Montana, USA
    Posts
    2,820

    Onward!

    Now that the lock is cut, and I have it fitted, its time to move on to the rest of the knife.

    At first I was going to use G10 for the scales, but as often happens with me, something "cool" comes to mind and I run with it. In this case I decided I was gong to do full Titanium scales....then an even better idea came. How about full Ti scales with "Pearl Windows"?

    I started out with.140 Ti for the scales, cut them to rough shape, then attached them to the liners with screws. Then I ground them to the correct profile, using the liners as a guide.



    I simply drilled a series of holes in each liner, being careful to ensure they were centered and lined up with the long axis of the scales. I then used a countersink on each hole. The holes range from 3/8" for the largest, to 1/8" for the smallest. The screw holes are all for 2-56 torx heads, so the holes were drilled with a #44 bit, and the tops counterbored to accommodate the screw heads.

    I then put each scale on the mill, and milled out an area for the pearl inserts to fit...






    The next step was to finish out the scales on the grinder, by contouring them to the shape I wanted, and then finished them out with 600 grit by hand.


    Next I bead blasted the scales and anodized them...them to add a little "zing", I hand sanded the center area of the scales clean with 600, and re-anodized them to achieve the dual color scheme.



    With that portion completed, its time to install the detent. I tried for a long time to do the measuring thing with the detent, and it just never worked for me. The solution I came up with is very simple, and is about a fool-proof as it gets. I assemble the folder, minus the scales. Using only light hand pressure to hold the blade closed, I then drill through the liner and into the blade with a #55 Hi-Roc drill bit. After that I place a shim between the liner and the blade (usually a Popsicle stick) and drill through the liner with a #53 drill bit. (That is the correct size for press fitting a 1/16" detent ball).





    I have found that this method works extremely well for me, and it eliminates all the hassles and mistakes of trying to measure, mark, and drill.

    OK, now that the folder is nearing completion, and since the blade is Mosaic Damscus, its time to etch the blade. First I put on a pair of latex gloves to protect the blade from fingerprints or any body oils. After a good cleaning with acetone, followed up by Windex, I make sure the blade is completely dry.

    The key to a smooth action on any Damascus folder is to mask off those areas that are contact points.... the washer area, the path of the detent, and the lock face. I accomplish this with clear fingernail polish.




    After letting the fingernail polish dry. The entire blade goes into the etch tank (Ferric Chloride) for about 15 mins. Once the etch is to my satisfaction, I neutralize the blade in TSP, then scrub it off with water and #0000 steel wool.


    On this particular blade I wanted high contrast, so I used a baking lacquer finish....sorry but I couldn't get pics of that process...didn't have enough hands to do it and take pics at the same time.



    The next steps I complete were the dual Ti thumb studs, and the clip. Basically all of the parts are now done.



    All that remains is to assemble everything! About the only other thing I can think to mention is that when I assemble/adjust the folder, I use a tiny dab of "Super Lube" synthetic grease on the pivot, and a dab of red loctite on the pivot screws.

    Take A look at the thread titles "WIP....The Finished Flipper" for pics of the completed knife.
    I'm always happy to answer any questions!
    Last edited by EdCaffreyMS; 11-04-2009 at 10:08 PM.

    www.caffreyknives.net
    Caffreyknives@Gmail.com

    "Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
    Visit me at Table 2Q at the Blade Show!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Posts
    515
    Thanks Ed,

    I'll definitely be referring to this thread when I begin my first flipper.

    Alistair
    Alistair Phillips
    Spare Time Knifemaker
    http://knives.mutantdiscovery.com

  8. #18
    Ed,
    Thanks for the WIP, it's nice to see how other makers make their knives.
    Do you find that you have a problem getting the knife to flip properly with the flipper so far back behind the pivot? I have tried various positions and the best one for me is to have the flipper even with or in front of the pivot.
    Thanks,
    Chuck
    Visit my table 5-E at the blade show.

    Please visit my website at www.gedraitisknives.com

  9. #19
    WOW ED!!! This is freakin awsome!!! I just finished my first folder and I am getting started on my next one, so this is very inspiring to me.. That floating pin feature is way cool!! Love the whole knife!! Glad to see you are on Knife Dogs.
    Shane Paul Atwood
    S.P.A. Custom Knives
    http://spacustomknives.blogspot.com/
    spaknives@yahoo.com
    Best New Maker Award Blade West 2009

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Great Falls, Montana, USA
    Posts
    2,820
    Chuck: This was my first attempt at a Flipper design. After playing with this one for a while I think it would be easier to "flip" it if its designed as you stated. I made the action pretty loose on this one to aid in the "flipping" feature, but can certainly see where that could be improved with re-designing the tab. I'm gona carry this one around for a while and see how it works out.

    Shane: You building folders now? Good on ya! Its certainly something that I never get tired of building....each one seems to present new and different problems to solve!

    www.caffreyknives.net
    Caffreyknives@Gmail.com

    "Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
    Visit me at Table 2Q at the Blade Show!

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