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Thread: A couple in saw steel

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    N. W. Florida
    Posts
    1,370
    Ray, like I said I always love your work. I forgot I had asked about this and this morning I am setting and looking at the forum in a little more depth, (raining here!) Any way I spot this thread and it is marked indicating I had already posted on it! So my brain says lets see what you posted on this thread of Ray's

    As I look down through it and read what you had posted I decide I have to go back and find the wizard link you are talking about! After reading it and looking at the blade (very nice BTW) I am just as impressed with the sheath.

    You know there are a lot of makers out there that don't even do sheaths with their knives. Some will get others too make the sheath. Too me the sheath is as much of the original design as the knife. Rarely are either locked in stone when an idea hits me and after a quick sketch I set out. Sometimes it real close to the sketch and sometimes it just evolves on its own!



    Ray I am just inspired by your sheaths! Look brother you need to an in depth tutorial on building such a sheath. I realize it is done now but the Wizard would have been an ideal one for such a tutorial. I see more after your explanation as too the two sheaths in one. However after actually looking at the Wizard sheath I realize there is a million steps missing in the process.

    I can see the two sheaths and I can see the build up of the Wizard but man it makes me want to know what thickness you are using, for both parts,etc. etc.. I would love to see the pics and explanations of how you are wetting and molding the second sheath, (the outer sheath). With step by step procedures and length of time on how things dry.
    Because I have fiddled some with wet forming and you have to keep coming back to the piece to get lines to mold in sometimes. I can see the results of the process. However I just can't wrap my head around how much effort and time it had too take with such a sheath. I also can't envision how you did all this and then it is not just two sheaths in one, it now becomes all one sheath. How did you join the inner to the outer.

    I am going to say you have crossed over into another realm here and you don't even realize how much of an impression it has made on my mind. Now not only does the knife talk to you, the sheath makes you believe every word of it!!!!!!!!

    Seriously Ray, I would love to see an in depth tutorial with good pics showing one of the style of sheaths like the Wizard from start to finish!
    C Craft Customs
    With every custom knife I build I try to accomplish three things. I want that knife to look so good you just have to pick it up, feel so good in your hand you can't wait to try it, and once you use it, you never want to put it down !
    If I capture those three factors in each knife I build, I am assured the knife will become a piece that is used and treasured by its owner!

    C Craft

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Mission, Texas
    Posts
    136
    Hey Raymond, Rey here in Texas and I have a question. I have made knives from leaf springs and I always drill the pin holes before I grind the handle. Well, this time I forgot and sure enough the handle won't allow the bit to go nowhere. During the grinding it got hard even though I dipped in water to cool. How would you get the spring steel soft enough to drill again? I have got it hot to non-magnetic and let it cool down but, it still won't let me drill the pin holes. I can just use epoxy without the pins or have my friend use his plasma cutter make the holes. Need your advise my friend.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gresham, Oregon
    Posts
    1,836
    Did you try a different drill bit after you heated it up? If I heat the steel up to a red heat and let it air cool I normally don't have any problem drilling holes. Now to anneal the steel you want to heat it up and stick in in vermiculite so that it cools off real slow. Also if you heat it up in the forge and let it cool off in the forge that will usually anneal it enough to drill. Also you may have to slow down the drill bit. It might be going way to fast.
    http://www.hawknknives.com/

    Second chances don't stop at two.....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Ayr Ontario Canada
    Posts
    27
    Great knives Ray.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Mission, Texas
    Posts
    136
    Thanks Ray will try and will make it work.

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