Belt question

Doug, my advise would be to forget a 4X36" sander for grinding blades. They're just not made for the job. There is no slack belt grinding ability and the edge of the platen is wider than the belts and makes it very difficult to grind the plunge lines. I started out with one and, to be honest, I found that draw filing was not that much slower and deffinantly gave more control.

Doug
 
Doug Lester said:
Doug, my advise would be to forget a 4X36" sander for grinding blades. They're just not made for the job. There is no slack belt grinding ability and the edge of the platen is wider than the belts and makes it very difficult to grind the plunge lines. I started out with one and, to be honest, I found that draw filing was not that much slower and deffinantly gave more control.

Doug
Click to expand...

Agreed, especially if you use a sen (Japanese draw knife). Your much better off with an angle grinder and a good set of files until you can buy a 2x72 grinder.
 
Thanks for all the input. I'm a gunsmith not really a knife maker so I make do with the equipment that I currently have. The platen is wider than the belt so I just made a stand off 3/4" thick & just a tad narrower than a belt. One problem solved. Then I made a guide that clamps onto the blade with two set screws so the plunge line comes out perfectly matching on both sides. Second problem solved. The 36" belts just were out too quickly. Here are a couple of photos. One is a 2" wide bowie with a 10 1/2" blade & damascus guard (guard billit made by MS Tim Potier) in progress & the other is a view of my grinding setup. The 4x36 is my recoil pad grinder. i'm just making it serve double duty. I just decided to make a few knives between custom rifle jobs.

bowieinprogress.jpg

4x36setup.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks pretty nice for using a 4x36 I would look at ceramic belts they cost alot more but way better for grinding. Then go to a gator belt I finish with norax structured abrasive . If you contact the company they will do specific grit for you . Or at least I know kligspore will as ive talked with the sales manager a few times and thats what he said. Kellyw
 
I deffinantly tip my hat to someone who has made a 4X36" sander work well as a grinder. The one thing that you can't get around with one of those machines is that the best belts for steel grinding do not come in those sizes. Whatever size belt your grinder takes, avoid the "ecconomy" grade belts. They're more expensive in the long run; you'll be changing them much more often than the "expensive" belts.

Doug
 
I received the ceramic belts from tru grit. They cut so much better than the stuff I was using its like comparing apples to oranges. Thanks for the tip. I really appreciate it. Now if I could only speed this sander up! The belt only turns at 1150 rpms.
 
Doug if there are any grits you want I know the guys at klingspor will do what it takes to help you. You now need to try some structured abrasive belts norax I love them for finishing. I have them in grits from 220 all the way to 3000 grit and once your done grinding with a 3000 k belt there is very little buffing to polish after. Kellyw
 
Speed is not everything. It works when it comes to hogging the steel off for profiling and establishing your bevels but it can lead to overheating and overtempering when you do your finishing grinds post heat treatment.

Doug Lester
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top