Anodizing Titanium ??

Keith Willis

Well-Known Member
I am ready to try my hand at anodizing titanium,and have a few questions.
First,Will this work for most anything I will do
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=9312+PS

Will a 1gal glass jar work for mixing my solution? I was thinking I read somewere,that you should not use glass,but I could be wrong.
I am sure I wil have more questions.
Thanks,

God bless,Keith
 
That is the power unit I intend to buy when/if my homemade anodizing rig ever quits on me. I use a glass container. Just make sure both your anode and cathode are titanium.....meaning, build yourself a titanium "hook" to hold in the + lead and hang the item your anodizing from.
The type and saturation of solution you use is also a key. Any solution that conducts current will work. Personally I like/us a saturated solution of TSP in distilled water. I've also used a saturated salt solution, and even Coca-Cola.
 
Thanks Ed,I just read your post,that said you use glass.I have an old flip top jar
with the wire lock.I guess its 1/2 gal.What will be my best mixture?

Thanks for the help,and as I said I am sure there will be more questions.

God bless,Keith
 
:) That's exactly like the container I use.....recycled it from the kitchen! For me it's important that I be able to see through the container, and that I can seal it up when not in use. I did put a layer of electrical tape around the wire ring just in case I slip up when the power is on.

Mixture: I filled the container with distilled water, then started adding and stirring in TSP until no more would dissolve.

Another tip on the anode/cathode.....after a number of uses, they will get an oxide buildup on them, which seems to impede the current flow/contact. When I notice this, I take them to a wire wheel and clean off the oxides....after that everything works like new again.
 
I have read this a few times...why does the cathode need to also be titanium? I'd think stainless etc would work also.
 
Thanks Ed,just ordered the power supply.
Do you think you could post a pic or a diagram,showing the leads
and your jar setup?
Thanks,

God bless,Keith
 
I have read this a few times...why does the cathode need to also be titanium? I'd think stainless etc would work also.
Stainless works great as a cathode.
I use some stainless shim stock, and that very supply from MPJA with great success.
 
I have the same power supply,bought from a different place but same price.Works great.
Stan
 
Keith, this is very timely for me also as I've been looking at the exact same unit.
It was noted by Bill Vining on his website. The 0-120 volt output should give the full
range of colors. My only hesitation was the 1 amp max but my understanding is that
will be plenty for smaller items like liners. Keep us informed how it does.

David
 
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I have one of these and it does work. Anodizing, I am convinced, is part Voodoo and holding your mouth just right. Be prepared to experiment for some time before you can get repeatable color results. I learned a light etch with weak acid really helps. I had some newer titanium that colored up quick and easy. I had some older stuff that simply would not take any kind of color until I etched it lightly and removed the surface oxidation.
 
David,I also read that,but after talking to a couple guys and they said
it would work,well,I went for it.I now feel even better,seeing that Stan
and T have the same unit.I will let you know.

Thanks Tracy,when you do the acid,how long of an etch do you do?
How weak is the mixture??

God bless,Keith
 
Multi-Etch from reactive metals is a godsend to the Titanium anodizer.

Especially if you want to get the high voltage colors.
 
As you requested, here is my setup....

My container... (pay no attention to the pistol butt in the background....this is Montana :) )
AnodizingJar.jpg


The Anode and Cathode...
AnodeandCathode.jpg


How it's hooked up for "bath" andoizing
PositiveandNeagtiveconnections.jpg


If you noticed I have a "handle" on the negative side....when I want to multi-color things, I clip off the cotton end of a Q-tip and use it like a brush....connecting it to the negative side, and the positive side to the item being anodized.

And this is everything setup to "bath" anodize.
ReadytoAnodize.jpg


I'm still using my homemade power supply, which runs through a variac, and they are located where I couldn't get decent pics of the whole thing.

OOPS! Cindy just walked in and saw the picture of that jar! She looked at me and said "Hmmm...so that's where my kitchen container went! :)
 
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Like Brian, I use the multi-etch from reactive metals. It is amazing what a difference it makes.
 
I only use titanium for the anode/cathode. I see that Brian mentioned he uses stainless, so obviously it works. I tried stainless, but with the TSP solution it made everything come out "pastel" looking, which I didn't like. I would surmise that the different solution might have something to do with that issue. I'm going to look into the multi-etch and learn more about it....and might even give it a try.

I just went and took a look at the multi-etch.....my assumption that it was a different type of anodizing solution was wrong. It appears to be a "pre-etch" that is used prior to anodizing! My bad. It seems to be similar to the "etchant" I use prior to gold plating operations.
 
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