View Full Version : 1st Design
04-25-2010, 12:39 PM
With my grinder starting to come together, im looking for a design for my first blade. This is what i came up with. :unsure:
Starting of with pen and paper and then scanned it . I used Illustrator to make the lines.
What do you think? Something i should think about?
It's about 18 cm (7") in total.
04-25-2010, 12:42 PM
Looks good. now to make it in steel....
04-25-2010, 12:57 PM
It's easy on the computer...
04-25-2010, 01:15 PM
By the way, how do i make patina on the blade like on this knife.
With clay thing?
Borrowed the picture from Jim Tood's thread.
04-25-2010, 01:21 PM
looks good flat or hollow ground /nice design
04-25-2010, 01:28 PM
Its my first so maybe its going to be flat. I would like hollow.
Lets see how my practice go first.
What do you think should be best?
04-25-2010, 02:01 PM
Looks like a nice little EDC/utility design.
What kind of blade steel are you looking to use? Patinas can be applied to high-carbon steels in a number of ways. Doesn't work on stain-resistant steels
04-25-2010, 02:07 PM
Sorry for my bad english. What is EDC/utility?
edit: google is my friend. Now i Know what EDC mean :)
Thinking of using a high-carbon steel named UHB15LM
04-25-2010, 02:15 PM
I like it, go for it and get it done and the show us the results. If you have anymore questions just ask.
04-25-2010, 02:15 PM
Good design, Bruno. EDC means Every Day Carry and utility means usable for many things. If you always carry a folding knife or a fixed blade with you then than knife is your EDC. A Utility knife is one that can do a lot of the things that you do everyday at work or at home. In most cases an EDC is a utility knife that can perform many functions - everything from opening boxes to self defense. Denny
04-25-2010, 02:30 PM
Patina is done with mustard or horseradish or etchant and just colors the blade. The "clay thing" is differential heat treating or a "hamon". Two entirely different processes. The clay is used to make the steel heat, cool, and harden at different times. Then when polished or etched ,it shows up as the differential line because of the change in hardness.
That's the simple version. One of the blade maestro's would have to explain fully. There are also tutorials on this site for both.
04-25-2010, 02:34 PM
Excellent explanation, Denton :)
Bruno, google is my friend too... from what I see just looking briefly, UHB15LM is described as similar to American 1080 steel and as such, would be a good candidate for a patina.
You can use almost any mild acid to lightly etch the steel and get that nice darkened look that helps protect from further rust to some degree. Things like mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar as well as cold-blue solutions (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=474604) meant for touching up gun barrels.
04-25-2010, 02:38 PM
Thanks for all explanations guys.
Learned alot tonight (09:38p.m. here)
I think i have a lot of Q. when i start grindig too. :D
04-25-2010, 02:40 PM
looks like a nice design. the patina on that blade looks like either clay or mustard. Can't wait to see your end result. Good luck.
04-25-2010, 08:35 PM
Bruno, you have a good design there. Show us how it turns out when you finish the knife.
04-26-2010, 06:43 AM
Bruno, that is a very nice looking design. It appears as though it would be a very comfortable knife to not only use but carry as well. Great job on the design work. As for the "patina" as you referred to it on that particular blade, it is actually a hamon.
The example phot you used is of a blade made by Matt Bailey. Matt is an excellent craftsman who chooses to diffirentially heat treat his blades using a clay coating on the spine during heat treatment. I believe Matt's steels of choice for his blades are 1084, 1095, and W-2. All of these steels will produce a hamon but from the knowledge I have gathered, W-2 and 1095 produce a more "active" (allow for greater detail) hamon.
If you look throught the Tutorials, you will find a thread written by Stephen Fowler which has an excellent description of the technique he uses to heat treat his blades in order to achieve this goal. Stephen is another excellent craftsman who is extremely knowledgeable and talented.
Here is a link to Stephen's tutorial: http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=1710
Best of luck to you on your adventure!
04-28-2010, 03:03 PM
I made a sheet metal proto of my design and noticed a few flaws in it.
First of all the handel was a little bit short. For my size of hand the pinky just land on the sharp corner. So I made the handle a little longer. I didn't want the knife to become longer, so the blade had to be shorter.
And with a friend of mine in mind to be owner of my forst design i made the tip of the blade a little bit diffrent. He has sledge dogs :running dog: (Alaskan Malamute) and going to use the knife for cutting ropes and stuff. I like the shape aswell.
The new design:
The old design:
What do you think? Better :D or worse :mad:?
04-28-2010, 03:37 PM
well now you have 2 designs to make 2 different knives, so get some more steel
I have a full notebook of designs and have to acquire at least a 50 m long steel to make all that designs :)
nice job and fingers crossed for you
05-01-2010, 07:06 PM
just a thought if the blade is to be used in the old with gloves maybe widen the index finger spot and rase the thumb area for more grip with gloves i do a lot of winter hunting i like both designs wen you make one do skow some pics
05-01-2010, 07:55 PM
Personally I prefer the first design, but both look great.
05-01-2010, 10:24 PM
I like the bottom one better too.
If it were me, I would stick with the first design and use the finished product to remove any bothersome pinkies.
05-02-2010, 01:26 PM
sorry not that good at english huh1
what does "bothersome pinkies" means?
05-02-2010, 01:39 PM
The first pattern is 2thumbs
05-02-2010, 01:55 PM
Rock was joking with you. He meant that he would make the first design and if it seemed uncomfortable due to the handle being too short for your little finger, he's just cut the little finger off.
05-02-2010, 02:28 PM
05-02-2010, 02:46 PM
It looks Good! I would just make the handle longer, and the Blade Shorter. Both Designs look good to me!!:D
05-02-2010, 02:54 PM
Can't wait to start trying my designs on steel. I still wait för the wheels for my new (only) grinder to come. The guy who makes the for me was suppose to be finished with them 2 weeks ago.
I guess he has alot to do :(
Then i wait a shipment from Tracy aswell. A contact wheel and some belts and alot of other stuff.
05-02-2010, 05:15 PM
The patina achieved on Matt Bailey's knife was done with a clay coating to produce the hamon and then etched in Ferric Chloride to bring out the hamon and darken the steel.
05-02-2010, 09:27 PM
why don't ya make them both?
I like # 1 best, but make both.
RE: #1 2thumbs
Go ahead and make it but modify the handle for use W gloves as suggested by someone else earlier in this thread, if you change the contour of the handle where the pinky rests it might solve the comfort issue your having W it?
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