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BlueSkyJaunte
11-09-2009, 05:31 PM
Ray, I read that you've used grade 60 rebar in some of your knives. I like the idea. I have some massive bars of W2 from DH3 but I'd like to work with something a little more manageable size-wise and a little less expensive for my first solo forging endeavor(s).

Can you share with us a little bit about this stuff and your methods? Carbon content? Heat treatment?

Or should I just go buy a bunch of W1 or O1 rod and save myself the heartburn? :bud:

Raymond Richard
11-09-2009, 06:55 PM
Ray, I read that you've used grade 60 rebar in some of your knives. I like the idea. I have some massive bars of W2 from DH3 but I'd like to work with something a little more manageable size-wise and a little less expensive for my first solo forging endeavor(s).

Can you share with us a little bit about this stuff and your methods? Carbon content? Heat treatment?

Or should I just go buy a bunch of W1 or O1 rod and save myself the heartburn? :bud:

Before you get going with the rebar make sure it will harden up. All the rebar I have used was made sometime back in the 90's or before. I have no idea what the new rebar is like. If it does harden up I would go ahead and use it. The people I know that have used my rebar knives have all been shock at how well they cut and hold an edge. Anymore I prefer flat stock since its already flat. The rebar moves pretty good. For you first try you might want to go with 5/8" stock or number 5 bar. The stuff I have used has always hardened up in an oil quench. Anymore questions I'll be glad to try and answer. I've used several different types of oil for the quenches and they all worked.

As for carbon content I have seen it listed at .32 on the tickets that came with it to the jobs but I believe most is higher. .4 to .5 carbon.

If you were to get 0-1 or W-1 in rounds you would find it much more difficult to forge. The rebar will still be work but its not as physically demanding as the other two steel.

BlueSkyJaunte
11-09-2009, 09:03 PM
Thanks for the info Ray! You're spot-on about the physically demanding part--I need to build up some muscles in these noodle arms of mine. :D

RAGUEL3
11-09-2009, 10:39 PM
Thanks for the info Ray! You're spot-on about the physically demanding part--I need to build up some muscles in these noodle arms of mine. :D

You start swingin a hammer, and in a few years you can enter the golf ball crushing contest ,lol.

Peter Killgore
11-09-2009, 11:43 PM
Ray, I read that you've used grade 60 rebar in some of your knives. I like the idea. I have some massive bars of W2 from DH3 but I'd like to work with something a little more manageable size-wise and a little less expensive for my first solo forging endeavor(s).

Can you share with us a little bit about this stuff and your methods? Carbon content? Heat treatment?

Or should I just go buy a bunch of W1 or O1 rod and save myself the heartburn? :bud:

Although I've have no where near the forging experience Ray does, the little I have done is mostly out of rebar and I can tell you right now you'll want a godzilla(Ray's custom forging tool, check out the thread on it if you haven't seen it yet) if you don't have one already. That tool has got to be one of the best things that ever happened to a bladesmithing shop. I just got my godzilla finished and have been using it on a 7 or so inch bladed fighter(?) out of rebar. It makes it so much easier. You oughta patent that thing Ray( I will if you don't:D)

Raymond Richard
11-13-2009, 02:24 PM
The knife in the first picture is the largest rebar knife I made. Must have made it around 2002 or 2003. I did do some testing with it before I even had a handle on it. I just used the through tang as the handle and I chopped two seasoned 5" diameter birch logs with it and it still shaved hair. If I remember the blade was 10 to 11" long. The bottom picture is a knife that Eli forged while he was just here for his visit.

http://www.hawknknives.com/forums/PDRM0229.JPG

http://www.hawknknives.com/forums/IMG_1753.JPG